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Routes in Upper Security Risk
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"S" Buttress, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cold Shot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cracking the Code S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crash Test Blondes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Friendly Fire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Get Smart T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hot Flyer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hot Wire S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Juice, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Just A Little Insecure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Led Astray S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Plan B S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pup S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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S Buttress Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,668 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Adam Brink on Apr 3, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update
Details
2018 update: all Boulder Canyon closures have been lifted!
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Description
This sweet crack line is the obvious, wide crack to right-leaning fingers and hands directly to the left of the bolted route Plan B. There is a small bush at the very start of the crack.
For some amazing reason, Get Smart gets no stars in the guide. I thought it was an amazing and varied line with lots of great moves and bomber rock. It is easily as good as any crack in Boulder Canyon.
The line starts with either burly offwidthing or wide stemming up the corner and over several small roofs. Just where the crack jogs right you have a chance for some rest and you better take it. The locks start good but get progressively looser as you head over two small roofs toward the anchors. The crux is hanging on through the pumpy moves to the anchors.
I don't know if a 50 meter rope will make it all the way down. Tie a knot in the end!
For some amazing reason, Get Smart gets no stars in the guide. I thought it was an amazing and varied line with lots of great moves and bomber rock. It is easily as good as any crack in Boulder Canyon.
The line starts with either burly offwidthing or wide stemming up the corner and over several small roofs. Just where the crack jogs right you have a chance for some rest and you better take it. The locks start good but get progressively looser as you head over two small roofs toward the anchors. The crux is hanging on through the pumpy moves to the anchors.
I don't know if a 50 meter rope will make it all the way down. Tie a knot in the end!
Boulder, CO
Did they lift the raptor closure for Security already? What about Blob Rock -- still closed, usually this one is opened early (before Aug 1) too, unlike Eagle Rock? Apr 8, 2005
Fort Collins CO
on the road
The rangers and signs say that the Security Risk crags are open early this year. If you want to get out there, drop me an email.
adam Apr 12, 2005
Fort Collins, CO
You'll want a 4.5 and 5 Camalot for the wide crack. I placed a couple more big cams since we carried our nuclear arsenal up the hill, not knowing what we'd be up against. We all stemmed the wide start, and it was fun and interesting--not at all a grovel. Above the wide crack is an airy moderate overhanging corner. If you don't have double in hand-sized cams (#2 Camalot), you'll want to move your one cam that fits up at least once. You could belay (or bivvy) on the lie-down ledge, but it's better to keep going so that you'll have more rope out for the hard part.
The crux shallow right facing right leaning corner is made reasonable by the occasionaly positive foothold. I placed 7 pieces in this corner from a #3 Camalot at the very bottom to a 1/4" nut at the last move. The other pieces were in the red Alien to #.75 Camalot size. No micro cams, although you might get one at the last move. The crux for me was, as Adam implies, the last move over the overhang, due to accumulated pump and placing the last piece rather than to technical difficulties. Both my partners, Luke and Chuck, avoided this by stepping left onto the face directly below the anchor bolts.
Overall, the start was better than I expected, and the upper corner was easier and much shorter and safer than I expected. Apr 18, 2005
boulder
Fort Collins, CO
I wouldn't call the start "burly offwidthing". It felt about 5.9 to me. Could be a little harder if you had really small hands; I was able to get a few good fist jams along the way.
For newer BD sizes (C4s), I used one each of 4, 5, and 6. This is sufficient to be well protected for the start without sewing it up. There may be other gear there. I had the big stuff so I wasn't looking. I'd take doubles in the 0.5 to 0.75 Camalot range.
This climb doesn't have any bad sections. Jul 25, 2009
Fort Collins CO
Here is my rack for next time:
1 set 0.4-5 C4
Yellow, grey, red Alien
Extra 0.75
1 set med-lrg nuts. Jan 3, 2012
Boulder, CO
The "OW" start is not bad, and much more logical to stem around given all the feet. Single new #5 is plenty on the big gear. Oct 25, 2012
Longmont, CO
Boulder, CO