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Routes in Upper Security Risk

"S" Buttress, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cold Shot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cracking the Code S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crash Test Blondes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Friendly Fire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Get Smart T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hot Flyer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hot Wire S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Juice, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Just A Little Insecure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Led Astray S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Plan B S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pup S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S Buttress Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Fred Knapp, Dan Hare 1998
Page Views: 772 total, 4/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Jan 3, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route starts in the right facing corner just right of Crash Test Blondes. Rolofson calls it PG-13, and that may be because the second clip is scary. You are clipping from a layback and have to rock onto your left foot to make the clip. You are looking at a fall onto the starting block. I suggest clipping a long sling to the draw so that you can clip the rope without pulling up much slack. Then clip the draw when you stand up.

The initial move off the block could be quite hard if you are short. Otherwise, strenuous laybacking off of good holds lead past two bolts to big holds. This is the first crux. Swing left around the corner and up to a ledge. Climb over a bulge and then up easier climbing on the white dike. The 6th bolt is a hard clip reaching far right from a crystal foothold and a sloping handhold. The bolt should have been further left in my opinion. Rolofson calls the next move up the dike 11a. It seemed hard, but not that hard. It is easier further left rather than climbing straight up above the bolt.

5.9ish climbing leads right along a diagonal crack to a vertical crack that leads to the anchors.

It's worthwhile toproping the somewhat grungy cracks that are directly above the initial corner and lead directly to the anchors. These cracks are about hard 5.9

Protection

8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Bring a long sling and biner for 2nd clip.

Photos

Kevin Neilson
Boulder
  5.11a
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
  5.11a
I found the second clip a bit awkward, but not particularly scary; maybe I was oblivious to the groundfall potential. I would have given the route two stars but for the sixth bolt, which does seem in the wrong place like Ivan says. You have to go quite a bit left of the bolt line and then traverse right using the small crystal foothold, which wasn't clear to me for a while. That was probably the most difficult move for me. The crux move through the dike wasn't terribly difficult for me because I did a huge left high step and was able to reach up to the jug. The last moves diagonally up to the anchors were fun. Since the anchors are well to the right of the bolt line it is somewhat difficult to clean. Jun 16, 2005