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Routes in Upper Security Risk

"S" Buttress, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cold Shot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cracking the Code S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crash Test Blondes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Friendly Fire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Get Smart T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hot Flyer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hot Wire S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Juice, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Just A Little Insecure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Led Astray S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Plan B S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pup S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S Buttress Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: FA: Ken Trout, 2/94, FFA: Henry Lester, 4/94
Page Views: 924 total, 5/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Feb 1, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is the sweet arete on the left side of the alcove below "Plan B" and "Get Smart". Not stick-clipping the first bolt would give this route a solid R/X rating, as the climbing is thin, balancy, technical, and continuous right from the start above a jagged boulder landing. Letting go for the second and third clips requires delicate posturing in very strenuous positions. As an arete, it has the requisite blind moves around the corner. At the top, it kicks well past vertical with a huge reach to a match on a sloping jug.

Don't be surprised if you don't flash this one - the sequence is solid but inobvious. It is quite entertaining but definitely on the short side - at most half the height of "Plan B".

Protection

Four bolts to a two-bolt anchor with rings. Stick clip the first bolt or die.

Photos

Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
 
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
 
I actually enjoyed this more than Hot Flyer, but I'm a sucker for aretes....

Super technical, balancy climbing until you hit the jug above the 3rd bolt. Felt like a super high-ball boulder problem! Dec 7, 2014
SAL
broomdigiddy
  5.12a
SAL   broomdigiddy
  5.12a
R rating with out a stick clip.
Not too bad though. I do not think you will die if you botch it. From the fall anyways. Aug 18, 2008