Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Mainly sport climbing, but there are some trad lines also. I haven't climbed much here, but there are some high quality sport climbs especially in the more difficult grades. Most of the routes are long, so bring up to 14 QDs. Bring tape for the crack climbs.

There have been eagle nesting closures which have limited access to this crag in the Feb. 1 - July 31 timeframe.

L->R:

A. S Buttress, 9+, 1p, 80', gear & bolts from B.
B. Pup, 9, 1p, 100', bolts.
C. Crash Test Blondes, 11, 1p, 100', bolts.
DA. S Buttress Direct, 10, 1p, 90', gear.
E. Led Astray, 11-, 1p, 80', bolts.
F. Crossfire, 9, 1p, gear.
G. Friendly Fire, 10 R, 1p, 100', gear.
H. Cracking The Code, 11, 2-3p, bolts.
I. Just a Little Insecure, 12-, 1p, bolts.
J. Get Smart, 10+ R, 1p, 100', gear.
K. Plan B, 12, 1p, 95', bolts.
L. The Juice, 12+, 1p, bolts.
ML. The Juiced Flyer, 12-, 1p, bolts.
M. Hot Flyer, 11+, 1p, gear or bolts.
N. Hot Wire, 12+, 1p, 100', bolts.
O. Cappuchino, 10+ R/X, 1p, gear.
P. Espresso, 10+, R, 1p, gear.

Getting There

Hike as you would to Happy Hour Crag, but instead of veering left, keep heading straight up the hill.

14 Total Climbs

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Location: Upper Security Risk Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Security Risk

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 70
Pup
Sport, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 28
Get Smart
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
Cold Shot
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 23
Cracking the Code
Sport 3 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 74
Crash Test Blondes
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 63
Hot Flyer
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 21
Just A Little Insecure
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 95
Plan B
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 14
Hot Wire
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 18
The Juice
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pup
 70
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Get Smart
 28
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Cold Shot
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Cracking the Code
 23
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
Crash Test Blondes
 74
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Hot Flyer
 63
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Just A Little Insecure
 21
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Plan B
 95
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Hot Wire
 14
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Juice
 18
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Upper Security Risk »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
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Photos

Had a close encounter with a huge Golden Eagle on the Solar Dome about a month ago. Partner was near the top of Altoids when this thing just stalled right above her for a moment--seemed like within 10'. It'd be great if there were more of these incredible creatures flying around--please respect these closures; they'll benefit us all in the long run. Mar 21, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Forest Service Reopens Climbing Areas in Boulder Canyon
www.fs.fed.us/r2/arnf/
Contact: Maribeth Pecotte, (303) 541-2500

Boulder, Colo. (April 2, 2010) – The Forest Service has reopened some climbing areas in Boulder Canyon that were closed to protect golden eagles during their nesting season.

Security Risk and the Blob Rock/Bitty Buttress areas are now open to climbing and other activities. These areas are located along State Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.

These closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including valuable alternate nest sites. Although these areas are being reopened, the Forest Service anticipates reinstating the closures in future years, to allow the eagles to choose their nest site without being disturbed.

The Eagle Rock area remains closed to climbing and other activities and is expected to remain closed through July 31. Signs will be posted at key access points into the areas remaining closed. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will continue to monitor the areas.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, or visit the Boulder Ranger District web site at fs.fed.us/r2/arnf/recreatio…. Apr 8, 2010