Elevation: 7,450 ft
GPS: 40.005, -105.393 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 27,939 total · 116/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

Mainly sport climbing, but there are some trad lines also. I haven't climbed much here, but there are some high quality sport climbs especially in the more difficult grades. Most of the routes are long, so bring up to 14 QDs. Bring tape for the crack climbs.

There have been eagle nesting closures which have limited access to this crag in the Feb. 1 - July 31 timeframe.

L->R:

A. S Buttress, 9+, 1p, 80', gear & bolts from B.
B. Pup, 9, 1p, 100', bolts.
C. Crash Test Blondes, 11, 1p, 100', bolts.
DA. S Buttress Direct, 10, 1p, 90', gear.
E. Led Astray, 11-, 1p, 80', bolts.
F. Crossfire, 9, 1p, gear.
G. Friendly Fire, 10 R, 1p, 100', gear.
H. Cracking The Code, 11, 2-3p, bolts.
I. Just a Little Insecure, 12-, 1p, bolts.
J. Serp-du-oh-hai!, 13-, 1p, 32', bolts.
K. Get Smart, 10+ R, 1p, 100', gear.
L. Plan B, 12, 1p, 95', bolts.
M. The Juice, 12+, 1p, bolts.
NM. The Juiced Flyer, 12-, 1p, bolts.
N. Hot Flyer, 11+, 1p, gear or bolts.
O. Hot Wire, 12+, 1p, 100', bolts.
P. Cappuchino, 10+ R/X, 1p, gear.
Q. Espresso, 10+, R, 1p, gear.

Getting There

Hike as you would to Happy Hour Crag, but instead of veering left, keep heading straight up the hill.

14 Total Climbs

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Location: Upper Security Risk Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Security Risk

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 81
Pup
Sport, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 33
Get Smart
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 25
Cracking the Code
Sport 3 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 85
Crash Test Blondes
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 74
Hot Flyer
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 26
Just A Little Insecure
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 115
Plan B
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 24
Hot Wire
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 20
The Juice
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pup
 81
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Get Smart
 33
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Cracking the Code
 25
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
Crash Test Blondes
 85
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Hot Flyer
 74
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Just A Little Insecure
 26
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Plan B
 115
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Hot Wire
 24
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Juice
 20
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
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