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Routes in Upper Security Risk

"S" Buttress, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cold Shot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cracking the Code S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crash Test Blondes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Friendly Fire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Get Smart T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hot Flyer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hot Wire S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Juice, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Just A Little Insecure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Led Astray S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Plan B S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pup S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S Buttress Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, TR
FA: Rick Leitner
Page Views: 1,984 total, 10/month
Shared By: Friso Schlottau on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is on the left side of Upper Security Risk. First clip is a bit odd - bring a tall friend or a clip stick if you are pushing it on this grade. Follow the bolts. This route can be climbed to set TR for Crash Test Blondes (5.11c).

Protection

9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Thanks, Dale and Bruce, for the new anchor. We were up on Plan B when you were replacing. Really appreciate the effort!!! Went up today and saw the nice shiny new equalized anchor bolts.

Direct start was very hard for me. Green and yellow Aliens protect it well, but climbing straight up the crack (instead of "cheating" the start using the blocks out left and moving back right above the crack) is solid 5.10, if not a low 5.11 move on those thin finger locks. Not much for feet getting off the ground. Felt harder than any move on the upper section of Get Smart. Maybe I am just missing something obvious though or too short (5'9" in shoes). Easy to place the cams, then clip the 1st, then back clean the cams. 5.9 minus the "direct" start sounds about right for Bocan.

There are several spots for small cams and nuts on the way up if you feel like doing a mixed trad lead. Nov 15, 2015
Dale Haas and I did some anchor renovation on this route. We removed the upper cold shut and bolt. We also replaced the cold shut hanger on the lower bolt with a SS Fixe. We added a new bolt, Powers SS, next to the lower bolt and added SS Quick Links and SS rap rings to both bolts. The hardware for this project was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA - safeclimbing.org). Support of the ASCA is greatly appreciated. Sep 29, 2015
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
  5.9
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
  5.9
A stick clip is wise here. Aug 8, 2015
The two anchor bolts at the top of this route were poorly placed, one bolt being about a foot higher, but also six inches to the left of the other bolt. With several quicklinks and links of 3/8" chain, I was able to create a situation where both bolts are both about equally loaded. Now, if one bolt fails, the other should not be shock loaded.

The welded cold shut on the lower bolt is definitely showing signs of wear, hopefully this was because of the improper placement of the bolts and not because someone is belaying and lowering directly through the anchor. I was not able to figure out how the lower of two cold shuts would be the one to show wear unless people were clipping a draw into the upper bolt and threading the rope through the lower cold shut which would create an equalized anchor. Oct 20, 2007
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
  5.9+
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
  5.9+
The first clip is most easily placed from the stemming position described, but may be difficult for shorter people. I really liked this route. It had a lot of nice laybacking. I thought it was on the high end of 5.9 in terms of difficulty. Jun 16, 2005
Steve Annecone
boulder
Steve Annecone   boulder
A good route and very useful as a warm up for some of the nearby routes. However, it's very unfortunate that this route includes so many bolts within inches of easily protectable cracks.

Tom Hayes and I put up the S Buttress in 1993 on natural gear about a year or so before Pup went in. The S Buttress starts at the same place as Pup but goes straight up instead of right near the first bolt on Pup, then traverses in where the 4th bolt is located, then goes up the same line from there.Really no need for bolts at all above the 3rd, a standard rack enables very safe gear placements. Oct 25, 2003
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
To make the first clip, place a small cam--green or yellow Alien. Then step right to a foothold from the block on the left. Don't climb from below (that's hard).

I thought the rest of the route was quite easy but very nice. The first clip is also easy if done as described above. Dec 8, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Sure felt harder than 5.9 to get to the first clip, but I am not very tall. My 5'6" partner though it was VERY hard. The higher crux felt like 5.9 though, for both of us. Sep 12, 2002