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Routes in Upper Security Risk

"S" Buttress, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cold Shot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cracking the Code S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crash Test Blondes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Friendly Fire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Get Smart T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hot Flyer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hot Wire S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Juice, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Just A Little Insecure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Led Astray S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Plan B S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pup S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S Buttress Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 3 pitches
FA: Dan Hare, Fred Knapp, Rob Stanley
Page Views: 1,427 total, 7/month
Shared By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Feb 17, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

I have not climbed the whole route, (there are a total of three pitches) but the first pitch is great romp!

P1. A wolf in sheep's clothing, this is the bolted line just left of "A Little Insecure" and is described in the text but not shown on Rossiter's topo of the rock. I had gone up to do "Crash Test Blondes" and wanted to do a warm-up first. I saw this bolted line up what appears to be a low angle slab and pre-judged it to be in the 5.8-9 range. 6 clips later and a real good pump, I had changed my mind to at least 11b/c!. I never even knew what I had gotten on till a few days later when I finally read the route description in the book. I thought this route was technically harder than "Blondes", with great edging and a devious high-step crux on excellent rock!

P2. 2 5.10 cruxes. 10.

P3. According to S. Kimball, the last crux is on loose flakes. According to J. Collins, you can combing P2 & P3 in 90'. 9+.

Protection

6 draws plus anchors for 1st pitch.

Photos

slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
We thought this route kind of sucked. Awkward first pitch but pretty well protected. My partner had a little bit of trouble clipping the bolt before the crux but managed.

Second pitch completely blows. Wanders all over the place trying to find the hardest climbing. Bolts are poorly located resulting in biners loading over edges, rope running over edges, etc. The anchor is kind of a botched job as well as it isn't well equalized.

Not really worth doing. Nov 10, 2011
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
The first pitch is indeed cryptic and on the first attempt I was perplexed. Aided by beta, the second attempt went much better. The second pitch is pretty good but is still somewhat dirty, unless I was way off-route. I'm pretty certain you can rappel from the 2nd-pitch anchors with a 60m rope. Sep 7, 2008
Thank you Joe, P2 & P3 combined offers great position with 3 mid 5.10 cruxes the 3rd. and highest on loose/friable flakes. Jan 17, 2004
If you don't do the 2nd pitch, then you're missing out. The first pitch, in of itself, is probably not two-star quality. I thought the better climbing was on the 2nd pitch. The position is also excellent, though there is a bit of looseness. Climbing all the way to the top from the anchors at the top of pitch 1 is about 90 feet of climbing and one 60m rope easily gets you back down to that anchor. Sep 19, 2003
Elijah Flenner  
5.11b
I also believe that 11b is on par with other sport routes in Boulder Canyon. The climbing is not powerful, but good use of your feet is key. Jan 9, 2003
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
The first pitch is a little ugly compared to the other routes nearby. The upper pitches look good, but I didn't do them. I'll be back for those pitches.

The first pitch seemed easier than two 11a's I did the same day, Led Astray and Cold Shot. One hard move between good stances. If it were trad, I'd call the first pitch 10b/c. I say that, because I more often than not cannot onsight 10c trad clean (I know that's redundant) yet I onsighted this quite easily. The rating of this may be consistent with modern sport climbing standards, but I can't say, being new to sport climbing after 30+ years trad. Jan 6, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
I did all 3 pitches and liked the whole route. It is aptly named, as the crux is complex but not so physically hard. I didn't high-step either. The first pitch was 5.11, and the second was 5.10. The third felt like 5.10 as well, but maybe that was the pump factor. I lead the first two pitches as one for sure, and if I remember correctly, I lead the entire thing as a single pitch on a 70m rope. Sorry, but I don't recall how much rope was left at the end. I did skip some clips and use some 2' long slings along the way to avoid drag. We walked off of the top. Sep 12, 2002