Type: Sport
FA: Rick Leitner, 1994
Page Views: 2,402 total · 11/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 29, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


75 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Crash Test Blondes is on the furthest North end of the crag proper and is the first route to the right of the 5.9 warm up, "Pup". The rock itself is rather blonde, but I would not want to crash test it or the landing. The line fires up to a small overhang by climbing on very slabby rock, that is not a slab. The nearly continuous friction climbing makes the start feel like a slab. Turn a corner and head up sparsely protected to the overlap. Big jugs, and the crux move just preceed the anchor. I found both roof bolts to be easy to clip, but felt that the last bolt was too far right to protect the move to the anchor very well. Other than that, this is a fun route, but feels very committing.

Protection

QD only. Bring 8-9 draws for the route and a couple of clips for the double bolt anchor at the top of this 70-75 foot route.

Photos

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Did anyone fix these anchor bolts? They were sticking way out with a bunch of washers for some unclear reason. Mar 7, 2002
Elijah Flenner
Fort Collins, CO
Elijah Flenner   Fort Collins, CO
I did this route on 9/29/02, and the large sidepull between the first and second bolt is loose. It does not feel loose when I was yarding on it, but when I let go I heard a sound that sounded like rock against rock. I then tried to move the hold and found that I could. Sep 30, 2002
Great route! The first one we did up there...a good sign of things to come. Nov 20, 2002
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
As of October, both bolt anchors still have at least an inch worth of washers; this seriously compromises the strength with the bolts sticking out this far. Nov 22, 2002
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
  5.11c
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
  5.11c
This is a wonderful route. The only problem it has is one of consistency--most of the route, save the roof at the very end, is good 5.10, and the roof itself is 5.11. There is one confusing point about halfway up below a small roof. There appears to be a blank face leading to a small roof with no holds and a huge runout to the next bolt. There is actually a bolt obscured by the small roof.Get your feet high, stand up with the aid of a small 2-finger sidepull used for balance, and then reach for the big hidden crack underneath the small roof and make the clip. The roof at the top is the star of the route. When approaching the roof, you have to go left, clip the bolt in the middle of the roof, and then work your way right and undercling the huge flake. Then you can clip the bolt at the edge of the roof. The next moves are super-burly.You have to get your feet really high and you are really exposed (although there is no dangerous fall potential). Work your hands up and move to the right to get a big hueco and another big hold over the roof. Then, with the left foot really high, haul your way over the top. Stellar. Jun 16, 2005
Aaron Furman
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11c PG13
Aaron Furman   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11c PG13
What a killer route, I thought the business end was in the beginning, but the roof moves were quite amazing. I think this would be a little easier for a smaller person (smaller fingers). Jan 6, 2016
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
Not sure who replaced these, but the anchor bolts are now fresh ASCA hardware. Support them and your local re-bolting efforts (the BCC) if you value safe hardware.

The top 2 bolts prior to the anchor still need to be replaced.

P.S. very good hand-jam at the roof-crux-flake. Jan 30, 2016