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Routes in Upper Security Risk

"S" Buttress, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cold Shot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cracking the Code S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crash Test Blondes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Friendly Fire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Get Smart T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hot Flyer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hot Wire S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Juice, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Just A Little Insecure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Led Astray S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Plan B S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pup S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S Buttress Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport
FA: Rolofson, 1994
Page Views: 2,959 total · 15/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Dec 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This route is 15 feet right of Plan B, and is another guaranteed super-classic. Climb 40 feet of tricky 5.11 to a nice no-hands rest, then begin the business. The route stays continuously difficult for another 35 feet through a capping roof, though the crux is noticeably harder than the rest of the route (and REALLY hard for shorter people). If you're really tall (like, over 6 foot by at least a few inches), the crux will come statically and relatively easily. For everyone else (myself included), it's a little bit dynamic and definitely super-reachy. A fantastic route.

Protection

12 QDs or so for the 10 protection bolts. Double bolt anchor.

Photos

ChanVan Schaack
  5.12d
ChanVan Schaack  
  5.12d
Got on this for the first time the other day- climbs way better than it looks from below- lots of long moves between positive crimps. The quality is diminished by the fact that it shares a rest with Hot Flyer to the right (and possibly another hold?). Jan 31, 2011
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
This route is flippin' hard. I have heard by many that the route has a height-dependent crux and many people do it dynamically. I am only 5'7" and could do the move entirely static by using very high feet and opposing sidepulls. This route seemed every bit of 5.13 to me. The feet were very tricky in a lot of spots, beta was a bit tricky to figure out at the crux (especially if your short), and the final pull over the lip requires some juice, hence where the route probably gets its name. Great route, though!!! Dec 3, 2012
Mark Rolofson  
5.12d
I established "The Juice" in August 1994. I redpointed it 7 times over the next 2 years. My best day of climbing at this crag was redpointing The Juice, Plan B, Hot Flyer & Just A Little Insecure all on the same day. A great workout!
The Juice has 10 bolts / 2 bolt anchor. The crux is definitely height-dependent. This is why I rated it 5.12d/13a in my guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume I". Mar 5, 2014
Dan Hickstein
  5.13a/b
Dan Hickstein  
  5.13a/b
Wowzers! I'm only 5'10", but I worked on the crux for a long time yesterday, and it didn't even feel remotely do-able. Is it possible that some holds have broken/deteriorated since the 12d rating? I broke off a fairly sizable hold lower down on the route, so it seems like the rock is still evolving a little bit. The roof move is super cool, but I have no idea how anyone could have "the juice" to pull that thing after the sustained climbing below. Apr 16, 2018

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