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Routes in Upper Security Risk

"S" Buttress, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cold Shot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cracking the Code S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crash Test Blondes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Friendly Fire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Get Smart T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hot Flyer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hot Wire S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Juice, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Just A Little Insecure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Led Astray S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Plan B S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pup S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S Buttress Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: T. Hayes and S. Annecone, 4/93
Page Views: 712 total · 4/month
Shared By: Steve Annecone on Feb 20, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This route starts behind the big dead tree trunk at the same start as Crash Test Blondes. Power over the bulge and head straight up the crack system on the face between Pup and Crash Test. The crux is encountered leaving the thin crack as it peters out and getting to the horizontal break below the first roof.

Move left under the roof, fire up the left side,then work up the corner. You can continue up this same corner system shared by upper S Buttress and Pup, or for a more interesting variation, step right as soon as possible after passing the first roof and climb up and around the next roof feature. Head up to the last roof, passing it on the left, and head up the right-facing corner to the anchors.

This climb is fairly steep with occasionally wild moves throughout. The gear is generally abundant although not always obvious, and occasionally tricky to place from balancy stances.

Protection

Standard rack with cams up to a #3 Camalot. Doubles in the smaller sizes (Aliens blue to yellow) may be useful. There are opportunities to stretch over and clip bolts from adjacent routes, although that's not necessary nor recommended. Rap from the 2-bolt anchor at the top of Pup.

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Tom Hayes
  5.10b
Tom Hayes  
  5.10b
I went back and led this with Steve last week and I must say this is a quality 5.10 trad route. A nice addition as there are not many at this grade in the area. Clipping the 1st bolt of "Crash Test" is a good way to avoid any danger from falling on the tree at the start, but the rest of the route goes nicely with gear. Aug 2, 2005

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