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Get Smart

5.10d, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 55 votes
FA: Randy Leavitt and Dan Hare, maybe 1980?
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Security Risk M… > Upper Security Risk
Warning Access Issue: Security Risk is reopened 4/21/26 DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closures for 2026 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, East Blob, Security Risk - open. Eagle Rock, Vampire, Black Widow Slab - closed. DetailsDrop down

Description

This sweet crack line is the obvious, wide crack to right-leaning fingers and hands directly to the left of the bolted route Plan B. There is a small bush at the very start of the crack.

For some amazing reason, Get Smart gets no stars in the guide. I thought it was an amazing and varied line with lots of great moves and bomber rock. It is easily as good as any crack in Boulder Canyon.

The line starts with either burly offwidthing or wide stemming up the corner and over several small roofs. Just where the crack jogs right you have a chance for some rest and you better take it. The locks start good but get progressively looser as you head over two small roofs toward the anchors. The crux is hanging on through the pumpy moves to the anchors.

I don't know if a 50 meter rope will make it all the way down. Tie a knot in the end!

Protection

Everything from the biggest cams to small finger sizes.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ross, about to feel a little pump.
[Hide Photo] Ross, about to feel a little pump.
Get Smart, one of my favorite climbs.
[Hide Photo] Get Smart, one of my favorite climbs.
Stemming the overhanging corner above the wide start. The lie-down ledge is just above.
[Hide Photo] Stemming the overhanging corner above the wide start. The lie-down ledge is just above.
Midway up the crux section. You can avoid the final roof by stepping left onto the face.
[Hide Photo] Midway up the crux section. You can avoid the final roof by stepping left onto the face.
Stemming leads to laybacking the upper half of the wide start.
[Hide Photo] Stemming leads to laybacking the upper half of the wide start.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Hey Adam:

Did they lift the raptor closure for Security already? What about Blob Rock -- still closed, usually this one is opened early (before Aug 1) too, unlike Eagle Rock? Apr 8, 2005
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
[Hide Comment] I looked on-line a few days ago and this area is open. Blob and Bitty are still closed. Apr 8, 2005
Adam Brink
trying to get to Sardinia
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Hey Dan,

The rangers and signs say that the Security Risk crags are open early this year. If you want to get out there, drop me an email.

adam Apr 12, 2005
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I've wanted to do this route since I first saw it about 2 years ago, but Rossiter's 10dS rating scared me away. Adam's posting of this climb reinspired me. Turns out you can get as much gear as you want, and it may be soft for 10d.

You'll want a 4.5 and 5 Camalot for the wide crack. I placed a couple more big cams since we carried our nuclear arsenal up the hill, not knowing what we'd be up against. We all stemmed the wide start, and it was fun and interesting--not at all a grovel. Above the wide crack is an airy moderate overhanging corner. If you don't have double in hand-sized cams (#2 Camalot), you'll want to move your one cam that fits up at least once. You could belay (or bivvy) on the lie-down ledge, but it's better to keep going so that you'll have more rope out for the hard part.

The crux shallow right facing right leaning corner is made reasonable by the occasionaly positive foothold. I placed 7 pieces in this corner from a #3 Camalot at the very bottom to a 1/4" nut at the last move. The other pieces were in the red Alien to #.75 Camalot size. No micro cams, although you might get one at the last move. The crux for me was, as Adam implies, the last move over the overhang, due to accumulated pump and placing the last piece rather than to technical difficulties. Both my partners, Luke and Chuck, avoided this by stepping left onto the face directly below the anchor bolts.

Overall, the start was better than I expected, and the upper corner was easier and much shorter and safer than I expected. Apr 18, 2005
Steve Annecone
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] I believe the "serious" rating in the guidebook pertains to the 10d s last pitch that comes after the route description by Adam above. I don't think it gets done very often... it looks fairly lichenous and perhaps a bit chossy, as well as run out! And it's also very short, 30 or 40 feet? Apr 19, 2005
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Steve, We considered continuing up and right (but without consulting a guidebook), but it looked easy and there were bolts that are, apparently, a continuation of Plan B. Perhaps, staying left of the bolts is hard and poorly protected, but it never crossed my mind to avoid the bolts. More likely, I was so relieved to get to the anchors, that I just wanted down. Apr 20, 2005
Rich Farnham
Nederland, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I highly recommend this route. I don't know about soft for 10d, but who knows? 10+ seems about right.

I wouldn't call the start "burly offwidthing". It felt about 5.9 to me. Could be a little harder if you had really small hands; I was able to get a few good fist jams along the way.

For newer BD sizes (C4s), I used one each of 4, 5, and 6. This is sufficient to be well protected for the start without sewing it up. There may be other gear there. I had the big stuff so I wasn't looking. I'd take doubles in the 0.5 to 0.75 Camalot range.

This climb doesn't have any bad sections. Jul 25, 2009
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
[Hide Comment] You can get by with a single #5 C4, if you don't mind bumping up the cam for 25ft from good stances. The crack is mostly #5 sized, so an extra #5 or Big bro could be used instead of the #6.

Here is my rack for next time:
1 set 0.4-5 C4
Yellow, grey, red Alien
Extra 0.75
1 set med-lrg nuts. Jan 3, 2012
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Great route! I'm surprised it doesn't get climbed more. We only had a 55m rope and had plenty left. Maybe a new anchor was put in lower on the pitch?

A 5 & 4 is nice for the start but you don't have to ow it. Crux is the shallow fingers to thin hands crack at the end. Oct 25, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Pretty great route for a cool autumn afternoon... ah! I brought a new #5 Camalot and #4 and felt pretty secure with both of these pieces. I thought the OW was going to be the crux, but... I was wrong and pleasantly surprised when I entered the upper crux. Super fun, very well-protected crack climb on good rock in an amazing position! Get on it! Nov 12, 2013
Mitch Friedeman
Boulder, CO
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Easily one of the best 5.10 crack climbs in Boulder Canyon. No #4 necessary. One #5 and two 0.75 were nice to have. Aug 2, 2018
[Hide Comment] First ascent: Randy Leavitt and Dan Hare, maybe 1980. That is what I recall. Apr 21, 2022
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Ditto on the extra 0.75 and 0.5 Camalots, but I was told to save the 0.4s and that's what I had....

I did find a #1 right at the lip that I made to work to avoid the otherwise runout for lack of 0.5 or 0.75. May 8, 2022