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Routes in Squat Rock

Branded T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Casual Corner T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Elusive Wapiti T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flamingo Road T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Higher Education S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jelly Omelet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kirk's Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lichen or Not T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Misfit Kids T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Miss Conception T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Sex Favor TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slimy Slit T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smut Puppy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sticky Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Temporary Clemency T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Urban Development T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 577 total, 3/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Oct 11, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Closed (private property) Details

Description

A nice route, but the crux is short and the rest of the route is a slabby crack to a broken end. Maybe 1.5 stars.

Find the route just downhill from Kirk's Corner in an obvious R-facing dihedral with several large boulders at the base.

Start with a small boulder problem to get on top of the boulder resting against the wall. The short (~10ft) thin crack is the crux, but takes a couple small stoppers and cams. Fire through this section and cruise the rest. Set the anchor at the last vertical block (not on top of it) to reduce rope drag for a TR (w/ 60m). Walkoff to descend.

Protection

Small wires and cams at the crux, standard rack for the rest.
Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
There is a great variation to the top of this route that will keep the climb much more sustained. Pull the initial finger crack crux and continue up until things start to get sandy. Look to your right and there is a finger crack that traverses under the roof for about 40 foot and belay at the top of Kirk's Corner. The variation may only be 5.9 but it's a much better finish. Protect the second on the traverse because there is definitely some pendulum potential. Great route. May 8, 2006
Matt Nelson
Pueblo, CO
  5.10a/b
Matt Nelson   Pueblo, CO
  5.10a/b
This is a fun route. Wouldn't call it 5.10b but maybe .10a. [Definitely] a route worth doing. Jan 24, 2006
Matt Chan
Boulder
  5.9+
Matt Chan   Boulder
  5.9+
I thought Urban Development felt a lot like Purple Haze's (West Ridge - Eldo) crux... i.e. a long stretch to a bomber finger lock from an insecure stance above a ledge. A couple more locks to a perfect hand jam at the top of the vertical section. The rest is a cruise. If Purple Haze is a 9, call Urban Development 9+. Oct 24, 2005
Matt Juth
Evergreen
  5.10a
Matt Juth   Evergreen
  5.10a
Great for 15 feet.... Nov 11, 2004
John McNamee
Littleton, CO
John McNamee   Littleton, CO  
This is a pretty good climb and definitely worth doing. The crux is easily visible from below, that being the thin crack in the corner. It is easy to protect with wires and small cams. Once you pull through the corner the rest of the crack to the sandy belay ledge is a nice cruise. Just watch for sand on some of the edges. It's not 10c but its not 5.9 either!

Sep 11, 2003
Short crux (maybe a couple of moves); NOT 10c. Aug 18, 2003
TBD
  5.9+
TBD  
  5.9+
Almost as good as Kirk's Corner in my opinion. Little bit of "gravel" on the ledge near the top, but otherwise clean. Jun 9, 2003
Joe Keyser
Scottsdale, AZ
Joe Keyser   Scottsdale, AZ
The route name is Urban Development. Fun finger crack crux at the bottom, and a cruiser from there. Hubbel's guide book gives it 5.10c, but, you be the judge. Oct 16, 2002