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Routes in Squat Rock

Branded T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Casual Corner T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Elusive Wapiti T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flamingo Road T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Higher Education S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jelly Omelet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kirk's Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lichen or Not T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Misfit Kids T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Miss Conception T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Sex Favor TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slimy Slit T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smut Puppy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sticky Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Temporary Clemency T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Urban Development T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: Paul Heyliger & Brian Parsons,1986?
Page Views: 63 total, 0/month
Shared By: TBD on Jul 1, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Closed (private property) Details

Description

The bolted slab between Urban Development and Kirk's Corner. Start as for Kirk's Corner, climb off the ground to the horizontal crack to the left. Hand traverse the crack to left to the arete. A small cam placement is possible here, prior to turning the corner to the first bolt. Clip the first bolt and make a tricky move up onto the slab. Follow the bolts up and left via some very thin moves with an ocassional sloping knob. There is serious fall potential between the second and third bolt, ground fall very possible if near the third bolt. After the fourth bolt, traverse left across a good flake to the finish of Urban Development.

Overall, the climbing is very good and consistant almost the whole length. In my opinion, the route would be well served to have one more bolt between the second and third. As it stands now it is a very serious lead.

Protection

4 5/16 bolts of ok condition. Possible small cam prior to 1st bolt. The second bolt is a spinner and should possibly be replaced because it protects the most serious fall potential.

To top rope, rap down clipping the bolts for directionals.

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When you established the route, did you place 4 or 5 bolts? Currently there are only 4, and if that was the case when you established the route, my hats off to you. Must have been scary running it out like that. Hubble's book shows 5, if that was the way you established it, it would be a much more reasonable lead.

I contemplated replacing the bolts, but descided that i wouldn't lead it with the ground fall potential between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, and i didn't notice a chopped bolt between them. If there is supposed to be 5 bolts, I'll be happy to replace them. Apr 28, 2005
The first ascent of this was done ground up, using occasional hooks and slings for aid support while drilling. We did it after the first round of bolt wars, and a couple of the area pioneers wandered by and commented it was nice to see someone drilling on the sharp end. The name refers to getting away from a bad romantic relationship, even for a few hours. Thankfully, that state has long been resolved by divorce of one of the FAs.

Given the state of fear while drilling, I am not surprised one of the bolts is a bit shaky after all this time. Anyone competent, feel free to remedy.

The FA team did only a few new routes back in the day, and while short, we considered this one of the better ones. Apr 27, 2005