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Routes in Squat Rock

Branded T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Casual Corner T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Elusive Wapiti T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flamingo Road T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Higher Education S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jelly Omelet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kirk's Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lichen or Not T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Misfit Kids T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Miss Conception T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Sex Favor TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slimy Slit T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smut Puppy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sticky Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Temporary Clemency T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Urban Development T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Description

Squat Rock and Sphinx Rock are currently both closed.

Squat Rock has been the scene of a number of bolt "wars" in the past and has a little-known moniker that is less than kind to the original developer (unfairly? I don't know, I wasn't around at the time). The generally one-pitch slab and crack routes, however, are quality, and include the classic 5.9s Lichen or Not and Elusive Wapiti. Currently, the crag is by no means overbolted and expect some 5.7 - 5.9 runouts on the slab climbs.
Closed (private property) Details

Getting There

From Pine (see area description), take Elk Creek Road West for approximately 0.7 miles to a small parking area (2, maybe 3 cars will fit). Hop boulders across the creek and follow the obvious trail for 5 minutes. It's best to keep following the trail to the point where your route starts as some unpleasant boulder hopping is required if you cut straight to the rock.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Squat Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slimy Slit
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen or Not
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kirk's Corner
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Elusive Wapiti
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Slimy Slit 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Lichen or Not 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Kirk's Corner 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Elusive Wapiti 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Sport
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mark felber
Wheat Ridge, CO
mark felber   Wheat Ridge, CO
Went there today, there are "no trespassing" signs everywhere that state that Squat Rock and Sphinx Rock are off limits. The signs specifically prohibit climbing and hiking. I was told by a local that the owners are concerned about liability issues. Time to get caught up on my Access Fund dues. Aug 17, 2006
Matt Chan
Boulder
Matt Chan   Boulder
As of 11/29/05 the board that facilitated passage of the creek is gone. You'll need to brave a fairly long leap over ice water or bring an eight foot board. Whatever you do, don't trespass by crossing the bridge to the north. Nov 30, 2005
TBD
TBD  
Beautiful area (aesthetically). One of the nicest easily accessable climbing settings that I've experienced. Jun 2, 2003
All of the no trespassing signs have been removed form the Squat approach. I heard the owner left town and doesn't care anymore. Jul 9, 2002

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