Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Squat Rock

Branded T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Casual Corner T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Elusive Wapiti T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flamingo Road T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Higher Education S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jelly Omelet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kirk's Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lichen or Not T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Misfit Kids T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Miss Conception T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Sex Favor TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slimy Slit T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smut Puppy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sticky Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Temporary Clemency T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Urban Development T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 97 total · 1/month
Shared By: TBD on Jun 7, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route is the bolted line to the right of Elusive Wapati. There are 4 bolts to cover 90 feet of climbing, so it's a tad run-out without many "easy" sections.

Start to the right of Elusive Wapati, climb up and right for about 25 feet to the first bolt. Alternatively, climb up between the wall and the large boulder to the right of the start before tackling the wall straight on. From the first bolt, angle/ traverse to the left to the second bolt. After the second bolt, the route trends back to the right to the third bolt. The forth bolt is some distance straight up, and the finish is even farther. Overall, the climbing is fairly consistant.

This climb is very enjoyable, however, not best for your first 5.10 in the Platte, due to the run-outs. In fact your best first 5.10 in the Platte is a 5.9, and your best first 5.9 is a 5.8, and so on. You get the picture.

Protection

4 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor. Shares anchor with Elusive Wapati and Sex Favor.

Photos

Rodger Raubach
  5.10b
Rodger Raubach  
  5.10b
Too bad this is now closed; it is a very challenging 10a, probably more likely a 10b as originally graded in the Hubbel guidebook. I seconded this one after leading Elusive Wapiti next door. Definitely a technique climb. Be good on the feet! Sep 10, 2010
Great photo, Murph. I remember that day fondly! Great lead of a heads-up route.... Feb 12, 2010
Michael Murphy
  5.10b
Michael Murphy  
  5.10b
The moves to the first bolt are easy if you traverse in from left to right, but it is a ways off the deck. The flake before the first bolt takes a #2 TCU (Yellow). Great sustained route. I agree with the Hubble rating - 5.10b Sep 6, 2005
Guppy  
I was shakin' like a leaf after the first clip. This climb really tests your courage.

HINT:if the first runout freaks you out as much as it did me, try to place in the mini crack before the first clip. there is a small opening toward the top of the crack which can maybe fit like a #1. Jun 10, 2003

More About Higher Education

Printer-Friendly Guide