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Routes in Squat Rock

Branded T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Casual Corner T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Elusive Wapiti T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flamingo Road T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Higher Education S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jelly Omelet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kirk's Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lichen or Not T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Misfit Kids T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Miss Conception T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Sex Favor TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slimy Slit T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smut Puppy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sticky Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Temporary Clemency T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Urban Development T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 397 total · 2/month
Shared By: TBD on Jun 7, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Closed (private property) Details

Description

The start of this climb is almost directly below the high point of Squat rock and is to the right of Lichen or Not.

Start in a wet and crumbly right facing corner. Climb up and left to the crux move up on to the slab, around the left side of the roof. Ascend the slab and crack in a large left facing dihedral to a large flake on the left. Traverse left, using the flake for hands, across the slab. Finish at a tree with a couple of slings, same as for Lichen or Not. Alternatively, you can avoid the slab/ flake traverse and continue straight up to a short but steep wide hand crack to the top (5.10).

Protection

Standard Rack.

Photos

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Christopher Jones
Denver, Colorado
  5.10b
Christopher Jones   Denver, Colorado
  5.10b
I found out why it is called Branded. If you follow the crack straight up (the way you are supposed to)the 10b offwidth will leave its mark on you. I had to have my partner take over after several tries. The offwidth on the very top is pretty tricky to get started in. Good pro up to 4.5 Camalot. Jun 2, 2006
Buff Johnson
  5.8
Buff Johnson  
  5.8
Another thing to add to Di's Escape (typically used to avoid the OW - not vice versa), extendable slings & back-cleaning will be helpful to avoid a mini-epic as the rope can get stuck in a small constriction while traversing. Very committing 5.8 move to start the route, but not a sustained route (overall 5.7); thanks to Dave for talking me through this when I started trad'ing.

Original line through the .10b OW is way way physical. Feb 14, 2006
Matt Nelson
Pueblo, CO
  5.8+
Matt Nelson   Pueblo, CO
  5.8+
I liked this route but the rope drag can be crappy. The route actually doesn't take the flake to the left but continues up through a .10b offwidth. The flake to the left is called Di's Escape. But which ever way you choose it is still a good route. Jan 24, 2006