Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,050 total · 6/month
Shared By: TBD on May 31, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed (private property) Details

Description

This is the bolted line to the right of Sex Favor, the second bolted line starting from the left side of the crag (ignoring to single ancient 1/4 incher). Very fun and interesting climbing.

Start at a thin seam and climb to the first bolt. A micro nut or two helps with this section. Step left to clip this bolt. From here climb straight up to the second bolt, past a good in-cut side pull. The third bolt is to left, traverse up and left to a decent stance to clip. Optionally, you can continue straight up following a seam that doesn't appear to offer any pro (5.10R). Run it out on easier ground past one or two more bolts.

This route shares the last bolt and anchor with Sex Favor. Fun, technical, and worthwhile climbing.

Protection

4 or 5 bolts. Micronuts optional for the start.

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Couple of small nuts on the right and 3 bolts on the left. The crux (5.9+) was moving past the second bolt to the third... lots of smears.
Couple of small nuts on the right and 3 bolts o…
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2 Comments

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John McNamee
Littleton, CO
John McNamee   Littleton, CO  
Excellent route with nice delicate moves on a steep slab that is well protected. A number 5 RP slots perfectly into the thin crack to protect the moves up to the first bolt. 4 good bolts then provide pro to the double bolt anchors at the top. It is also possible to protect the small run out between the 3 and 4th bolt by placing a sling on a small horn. It is run out between the last bolt and the anchors, but it is only about 5.6. It can be made easier or harder by going left or right respectively. A must do climb and great for developing footwork in a safe position with really nice moves. More like 5.9 rather than 5.9+. Jun 29, 2003
Rodger Raubach
  5.9+
Rodger Raubach  
  5.9+
This climb had several hangerless bolts with just washers; I only had draws with me so had to downclimb and get more gear; used wired stoppers as hangers. Seemed all of 5.9+ from all the fiddling around before finishing the lead. Too bad it's now "off limits." Jul 20, 2010