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Routes in Squat Rock

Branded T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Casual Corner T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Elusive Wapiti T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flamingo Road T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Higher Education S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jelly Omelet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kirk's Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lichen or Not T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Misfit Kids T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Miss Conception T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Sex Favor TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slimy Slit T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smut Puppy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sticky Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Temporary Clemency T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Urban Development T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Kirk Miller and Ken Trout in the late '70s
Page Views: 1,569 total, 8/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Aug 4, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Closed (private property) Details

Description

Excellent, sustained vertical hand crack in a dihedral right of the Squat Rock summit. Approach as for Lichen or not, and then go up and right to the first alcove past the buttress directly below the summit block. Reminiscent of the first pitch of Friday the 13th (Vedauwoo), although slightly steeper and not as clean as the latter climb.

10 feet of easy ground leads to sustained hand jams and a short thin hands/lieback (crux) to a small ledge. Lieback or stem your way through the pod above ( many good small gear placements) to a large sandy ledge where a good gear anchor can be set up. Easy walkoff straight back and then right.

Protection

Standard rack plus a couple of medium hexes.

Photos

Buff Johnson
  5.9+
Buff Johnson  
  5.9+
Another good natural line (is there a bad one around here?)! People w/ small feet could find this a soft .9; For me .9+. good locks & crack moves (there's a great hex placement also). Don't count on bolts to be here for the anchor; there is a good natural seam for temp pro (handsized cams ok) & a walkoff. No point in debating a bolt issue, locals manage this area. Feb 16, 2006
Andrew Ingraham
Conifer
 
Andrew Ingraham   Conifer
 
Seemed like it was more deserving of the 5.9 rating then lichen or not, just because (IMO) the crux moves were more committing. Didn't see any bolts and didn't see any no trespassing signs. Feb 16, 2006
Matt Nelson
Pueblo, CO
  5.9+
Matt Nelson   Pueblo, CO
  5.9+
Great route, one of my SPlatte favorites... To bad it isn't longer Jan 24, 2006
Matt Chan
Boulder
  5.9
Matt Chan   Boulder
  5.9
Hubbel's guidebook recommends bringing along extra 3"-4" cams - I didn't place anything in that range. A SR to a #2 Camalot will work just fine. A couple of absolutely bomber nut placements on the left of the crack at the start allow you to carry single cams to a #2. Sep 6, 2005
John McNamee
Littleton, CO
John McNamee   Littleton, CO  
Outstanding three star route. A must do lead. Just wish it was longer . . . Unable to locate the above mentioned bolts. Aug 9, 2003
TBD
TBD  
Great route. I live in Conifer as well, I hope the bolts don't get chopped. While their placement can be debated, they aren't without worth. The damage has been done, don't make it worse. Jun 2, 2003
Hill
 
Hill  
 
Me and my big mouth! I guess I'll have to keep any discovery of new bolts in the Platte as a personal note only. It seems to me that Squat Rock is a great place for first time crack climbers, so what's wrong with making it accesible to someone without a rack? Hey Tulio, maybe these bolts would have provided the practice for people aspiring to get on the Center Route, thus reducing your frustration over there. Feb 10, 2003
Read my profile and you'll see that I live in the Conifer area. Sorry Ben, but those bolts will be gone before you can get to them.It already was convenient to set a TR on this cimb. Jan 23, 2003
Hill
 
Hill  
 
There are shiny new bolts at the top of this one, easily accessible for setting up a top rope if so desired. Jan 23, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
You give this a 5.8+ and say "no way it is a 5.9" ??? Come on, Ben, doesn't the + at the end of the 5.8 grade mean you think it is awful close to a 5.9? Seems like splitting hairs to call it 5.8+ but say "no way" it is 5.9.

Just a though on how strongly your language might be interpreted. Nov 11, 2002
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
Extra #1 and #2 Camalot would be helpful. I did not see an anchor at the top. Oct 21, 2002
Ben Mottinger

  5.9+
Ben Mottinger    
  5.9+
For the crag, it's 3 stars, even though it's short.

Good rests between the hard spots keeps the grade lower. Oct 13, 2002
Joe Keyser
Scottsdale, AZ
Joe Keyser   Scottsdale, AZ
An extra .75, and #1 cam (or equivalent) would be nice to have on this crack, and a few others at the crag. I led Kirk's Corner on [Saturday] with one of each of these cams, and thought it would have been nice to have at least one more in that size range... Apr 22, 2002