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Routes in Squat Rock

Branded T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Casual Corner T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Elusive Wapiti T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flamingo Road T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Higher Education S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jelly Omelet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kirk's Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lichen or Not T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Misfit Kids T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Miss Conception T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Sex Favor TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slimy Slit T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smut Puppy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sticky Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Temporary Clemency T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Urban Development T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,405 total, 7/month
Shared By: Darrin Stein on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Closed (private property) Details

Description

When the route is not wet or slimy, as the name suggest, this is a great route for the easy grade. Perfect hand jams, bomber cams settings, and a sustained 5.7 section makes this a triple star in my opinion. Tie in while on the block, back from the route, get your belay slave ready and take the swing... then lower down to the start. Just a quick "jump" start to get your blood pumping.

Protection

A medium-sized rack will do just fine.
Matt Nelson
Pueblo, CO
  5.7+
Matt Nelson   Pueblo, CO
  5.7+
This is a route well worth doing. The crux [I think] is definitely near the top where the crack flares to the right. But definitely a 5.7. Dec 13, 2006
Buff Johnson
  5.7+
Buff Johnson  
  5.7+
I vote for the smeary flaring moves in the upper transition area as being the crux, a little freaky to lead on if getting into trad. Jun 16, 2006
Andrew Ingraham
Conifer
 
Andrew Ingraham   Conifer
 
Good Fun climb. You have to love a 5.7 crack that requires pure jamming. I think the crux is the first 15 feet or the smeary moves at the top. Feb 16, 2006
jay baichi
  5.7
jay baichi  
  5.7
Make sure it has been dry for a few days. If the top of the crack is wet, the climb turns from a fun 5.7 to an [awful] experience. Jun 12, 2005
John McNamee
Littleton, CO
John McNamee   Littleton, CO  
Classic route and well worth climing. Solid jams and well protected 5.7. Jun 29, 2003
TBD
  5.7
TBD  
  5.7
Fabulous climb for the grade. If it's wet, it is substantially more difficult. Jun 3, 2003
LAW
LAW  
If there is a crux, I would say it's near the top where the crack rounds out a bit and is sometimes on the dirty side. May 22, 2003
Joe Keyser
Scottsdale, AZ
Joe Keyser   Scottsdale, AZ
I [couldn't really find] a crux on this climb, and just found sustained, bomber jams the whole way... Aug 22, 2002
Darrin Stein
Vancouver, WA
 
Darrin Stein   Vancouver, WA
 
IMHO - the crux is the first 15 - 20 feet. Aug 22, 2002