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Routes in Squat Rock

Branded T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Casual Corner T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Elusive Wapiti T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flamingo Road T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Higher Education S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jelly Omelet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kirk's Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lichen or Not T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Misfit Kids T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Miss Conception T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Sex Favor TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slimy Slit T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smut Puppy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sticky Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Temporary Clemency T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Urban Development T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad
FA: Kirk Miller and Ken Trout, 1982
Page Views: 1,158 total · 6/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Jul 21, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Closed (private property) Details


Another of the Platte's near-perfect hand cracks, Lichen or Not ascends a short vertical buttress and is punctuated by a 20 ft 5.6 runout on slabs to the anchor.

Hike to Squat Rock and continue on the trail to approximately the midpoint of the rock. As a reference point, you should be slightly to the left of the Squat Rock summit (a blocky boulder cleft by a 5.10 offwidth) and about even with a tree located just down and left from the summit. Thread your way through some large boulders to the base. As you near the base, you will likely look up and say to your partner, "that looks like a great line!." This is your route.

Hand jams with a thin-hands crux will take you to the top of the vertical section. Follow easy ground and then move left, clipping a bolt before a 5.8 slab move. 5.6 slabs take you the next 20 feet to the summit. A 60m single-rope rap will get you to the base of the climb, but be extremely cautious when pulling the rope to avoid the gully to the "climber's left" of the route. We were less than cautious and ended up with a thoroughly wedged cord.


Light standard rack weighted towards hand-sized pieces (an extra #2 Camalot/2.5 Friend is advisable) plus a QD for the single bolt. Tree anchor w/slings at the top.


This is a great route! I haven't climbed it in a while, since the rock seems to be closed (hoping it is/will open again). If you saw anybody out there in the winter doing laps on self belay, well, that was probably me (at the very least, I climbed it a lot). Aug 18, 2001
Darin Lang  
The last time I was up there (8/11) I didn't see any of the No Trespassing signs along the normal approach. Of course, this doesn't necessarily mean that the crag is "open". YMMV. Aug 20, 2001
I've been waiting for a long time to get this rock up just so I could add this route... I guess I was just way too lazy after work to bother. Anyways, I can't even say how perfect this crack is. If you want a textbook crack for handjams, this is your climb! A great 5.9 for the Platte. Aug 21, 2001
Shane Zentner
Shane Zentner   Colorado
Hand jam. Dec 5, 2001
Darrin Stein
Vancouver, WA
Darrin Stein   Vancouver, WA
Beautiful, short bomber hands crux to a slab finish with a single bolt. Dec 10, 2001
Ben Mottinger

Ben Mottinger    
I thought the good part of the route was too short for 3 stars. Oct 13, 2002
Great route, classic hand crack. I added a quick link to the slings that were on the tree at the top to make for a better rap. Jun 2, 2003
John McNamee
Littleton, CO
John McNamee   Littleton, CO  
Superb Climb. Just wish it were longer! Solid jams and great feet. 5.8. Jun 29, 2003
jay baichi
jay baichi  
Super fun! Short, but [great] fun for the 5.8 leader. Jun 12, 2005
Matt Nelson
Pueblo, CO
Matt Nelson   Pueblo, CO
One of the best lines at Squat, very worth doing. It would be nice if the crack at the beginning was about 100 feet longer though :-) Jan 24, 2006
Andrew Ingraham
Andrew Ingraham   Conifer
Very fun Crack. I think some of the jamming involved is 5.9 but it's not long enough to start feeling it. Probably feels easier if your accustomed to jamming. The second half of the route up the slab has a beefy new bolt protecting the one interesting move. Feb 16, 2006
Buff Johnson
Buff Johnson  
One of my favorites, purple Alien sized. If you really want to freak yourself out, go climber's right after the crack angle backs off; fun thin crimp slab (I think .8+) w/ no pro (maybe do this stunt on TR). Jun 2, 2006
Buff Johnson
Buff Johnson  
Seeing these crack pics again just sucks monkey balls, doesn't it???

I need a beer. May 5, 2008
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
It was a fun little rock. May 5, 2008

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