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Routes in Squat Rock

Branded T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Casual Corner T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Elusive Wapiti T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flamingo Road T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Higher Education S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jelly Omelet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kirk's Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lichen or Not T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Misfit Kids T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Miss Conception T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Sex Favor TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slimy Slit T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smut Puppy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sticky Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Temporary Clemency T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Urban Development T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 639 total · 3/month
Shared By: Darrin Stein on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Closed (private property) Details

Description

Just to the right of Slimy Slit is another great hand crack with a little flair in the middle. The first crack peters out and a very old, single bolt appears. If not clipped, moving past this and falling should not produce a ground fall with an attentive belayer and proper protection. However, the ride will be a bit scary. Many have taken a step right and used the crack route, Peter's Out, then back to avoid the bolt. Make it past the bolt to a flared crack that will then move to a short hand section. Continue and use the same anchors as for Slimy Slit.

Protection

A medium rack with one quick draw for the single bolt (VERY OLD BOLT....BE CAREFUL)

Photos

The old bolt has been replaced! Enjoy! Mar 11, 2004
TBD
  5.8+
TBD  
  5.8+
Thanks for the rebolt. A very fun climb. Apr 18, 2004
Wow what a route... I find this one to be easier than Slimey Slit, once you get the crux wired. I won't say how, but this route seems to be a little height dependant. The finger crack on the upper portion is sweet! Oct 11, 2004

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