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Urban Development

5.10a/b, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 1.8 from 10 votes
FA: Brett Bristol, Peter Hubbel, Chip Wilson, 5/1985
Colorado > S Platte > Pine Area > Squat Rock
Warning Access Issue: Closed (private property) DetailsDrop down

Description

A nice route, but the crux is short and the rest of the route is a slabby crack to a broken end. Maybe 1.5 stars.

Find the route just downhill from Kirk's Corner in an obvious R-facing dihedral with several large boulders at the base.

Start with a small boulder problem to get on top of the boulder resting against the wall. The short (~10ft) thin crack is the crux, but takes a couple small stoppers and cams. Fire through this section and cruise the rest. Set the anchor at the last vertical block (not on top of it) to reduce rope drag for a TR (w/ 60m). Walkoff to descend.

Protection

Small wires and cams at the crux, standard rack for the rest.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Chris Parks coming up over the steep crux of Urban Development.
[Hide Photo] Chris Parks coming up over the steep crux of Urban Development.
Urban Development
[Hide Photo] Urban Development
Finishing the crux....
[Hide Photo] Finishing the crux....
and some more of Rik.....
[Hide Photo] and some more of Rik.....
Rik again
[Hide Photo] Rik again
Rik on "Urban Development"
[Hide Photo] Rik on "Urban Development"

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joe Keyser
Scottsdale, AZ
[Hide Comment] The route name is Urban Development. Fun finger crack crux at the bottom, and a cruiser from there. Hubbel's guide book gives it 5.10c, but, you be the judge. Oct 16, 2002
TBD
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Almost as good as Kirk's Corner in my opinion. Little bit of "gravel" on the ledge near the top, but otherwise clean. Jun 9, 2003
[Hide Comment] Short crux (maybe a couple of moves); NOT 10c. Aug 18, 2003
John McNamee
Littleton, CO
[Hide Comment] This is a pretty good climb and definitely worth doing. The crux is easily visible from below, that being the thin crack in the corner. It is easy to protect with wires and small cams. Once you pull through the corner the rest of the crack to the sandy belay ledge is a nice cruise. Just watch for sand on some of the edges. It's not 10c but its not 5.9 either!

Sep 11, 2003
Matt Juth
Ridgway, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Great for 15 feet.... Nov 11, 2004
Matt Chan
Denver
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] I thought Urban Development felt a lot like Purple Haze's (West Ridge - Eldo) crux... i.e. a long stretch to a bomber finger lock from an insecure stance above a ledge. A couple more locks to a perfect hand jam at the top of the vertical section. The rest is a cruise. If Purple Haze is a 9, call Urban Development 9+. Oct 24, 2005
Matt Nelson
Pueblo West, CO
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] This is a fun route. Wouldn't call it 5.10b but maybe .10a. [Definitely] a route worth doing. Jan 24, 2006
Monty
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] There is a great variation to the top of this route that will keep the climb much more sustained. Pull the initial finger crack crux and continue up until things start to get sandy. Look to your right and there is a finger crack that traverses under the roof for about 40 foot and belay at the top of Kirk's Corner. The variation may only be 5.9 but it's a much better finish. Protect the second on the traverse because there is definitely some pendulum potential. Great route. May 8, 2006