Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 253 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 4, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

From the top of Sugar crack, walk straight back though a hallway in the rock, keeping your eye to the left. Alternatively, climb Petit Crapon and finish by walking to the end of the slot above that climb. A left turn will bring your into the previously mentioned "hallway" above Sugar Crack.

A few meters back in the hallway, you will see a hand-to-fist crack going up the wall on your left, about 30' behind the top of Sugar Crack. Climb up this, first stemming behind you in the hallway to the big boulder, then fist and hand jamming or thrutching (arm-bar?) up the crack to the top. There is no 'hop' required. You can simply pull onto the rock and jam upward. My partner was short and still flash-followed the route at about 5.9.

Belay off of gear up top before walking across the top of the "Rat Brain" to the anchors above Kim, from which you can rap off.

Protection

A few cams, from 2" to 4"

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