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Routes in Poland Hill

Ape Walk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Voo, The T V8 7B
Bistro, The 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
Boulder Hopper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clean and Jerk T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cool Jet T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cumulus V10- 7C+
Estrogen Patch Remover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fantasia T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green With Envy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
Kim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Old Crack aka Boulder Hop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orbital Ridge T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overload T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Petit Crapon T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Piece of Dirt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Remote Control T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skull T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soul of a Poet V5 6C
Southwest Friction S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stem Christie T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sugar Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sweet Finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tanfasia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Toadstool V2-3 5+
Underachiever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown (certainly not me)
Page Views: 177 total · 1/month
Shared By: Chad Bowman on Oct 14, 2003
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

From Fantasia, go right about 5 feet, give or take, to the flaring finger crack that is non-existent at the bottom. What I did was climb Southwest Friction and use the TR anchor bolts from Fantasia. As for the rating, Heel and Toe says 11c. I'm not even close to an 11c climber, so I say 11a/b. But it is very hard. Enjoy!

Protection

Just past the horizontal crack, there is a fixed piton. Now, I did this on top-rope, but if anyone does want to lead it - I would take a regular set of nuts and maybe a couple of tiny hexes, but nothing much larger.

Photos

I would think 11c would be the grade if you had to hang out and place pro on lead don't you? Do people even use hexes anymore? May 7, 2004
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.11c
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.11c
Piana, 1982.

As for gear, I'd bring some offset friends or hybrid aliens, a set of small nuts and maybe a red alien for the top. Also, some boldness is necessary to get up to where you can protect it after the piton. Orenzak suggests a big piece right off the belay, but if your belayer is squishy, it shouldn't be a problem. May 9, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11c
11c with a bouldery start. I tried it a few times in floppy loose shoes and it was utterly impossible. I got it on TR wearing someone elses shoes.Frankly, I thought it would have been MUCH harder for the short. an 11a route with a ??? opening boulder problem that could be 5.11a-12? depending on height. The starting pinch below the climb is broken now too, but I didn't do it, so maybe it's been that way for a long time.

I'd not be downgrading this one either way. May 17, 2004
Chad Bowman
  5.11c
Chad Bowman  
  5.11c
I climbed this route last fall and it was hard - solid 11b or c. I particularly like the face below it if the boulder behind you isn't used. Once to the piton and on the route, it felt like a one-move 11. After the piton, it feels like a difficult 10. The jams suck, but they're there. For the first timer, climb SW Friction or Fantasia and TR using the bolts above Fantasia. I would definitely recommend doing this route at least once. Jun 25, 2004
molony  
Seriously brian? Squishy belayers as pro? Solid advice Feb 25, 2008
Clay Stoner
Sheridan, Wy
  5.11c PG13
Clay Stoner   Sheridan, Wy
  5.11c PG13
  • Spoiler* - Offsets are the key! A #1 offset Mastercam can be placed about 4-5 feet above the piton, with the next piece another ~6 feet up(I think a #4 offset). I brought along some c3s but never found any confident placements for them. This is a bold line worth doing if equipped with offsets.
Sep 5, 2011

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