Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown (certainly not me)
Page Views: 249 total · 1/month
Shared By: Chad Bowman on Oct 14, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

From Fantasia, go right about 5 feet, give or take, to the flaring finger crack that is non-existent at the bottom. What I did was climb Southwest Friction and use the TR anchor bolts from Fantasia. As for the rating, Heel and Toe says 11c. I'm not even close to an 11c climber, so I say 11a/b. But it is very hard. Enjoy!

Protection

Just past the horizontal crack, there is a fixed piton. Now, I did this on top-rope, but if anyone does want to lead it - I would take a regular set of nuts and maybe a couple of tiny hexes, but nothing much larger.

Photos