Type: Trad, TR, Aid, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Paul Pianna?
Page Views: 703 total · 3/month
Shared By: Chad Bowman on Oct 14, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route

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From Fantasia, go right about 5 feet, give or take, to the flaring finger crack that is non-existent at the bottom. What I did was climb Southwest Friction and use the TR anchor bolts from Fantasia. As for the rating, Heel and Toe says 11c. I'm not even close to an 11c climber, so I say 11a/b. But it is very hard. Enjoy!


Just past the horizontal crack, there is a fixed piton. Now, I did this on top-rope, but if anyone does want to lead it - I would take a regular set of nuts and maybe a couple of tiny hexes, but nothing much larger.