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Routes in Poland Hill

Ape Walk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Voo, The T V8 7B
Bistro, The 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
Boulder Hopper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clean and Jerk T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cool Jet T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cumulus V10- 7C+
Estrogen Patch Remover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fantasia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green With Envy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
Kim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Old Crack aka Boulder Hop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orbital Ridge T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overload T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Petit Crapon T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Piece of Dirt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Remote Control T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skull T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soul of a Poet V5 6C
Southwest Friction S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stem Christie T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sugar Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sweet Finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tanfasia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Toadstool V2-3 5+
Underachiever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,634 total, 9/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Jun 22, 2002
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Petit Crapon lies 20' left of Sugar and right around corner from Fantasia in an alcove. The start looks harder than it actually is. This route has 2 distinct sections that require completely different techniques. Although described as an offwidth, the first half is straight up chimneying for the most part. Exit the chimney onto a ledge, then continue up arching finger crack (crux) to easier ground (protects well with .5 camalot). Belay in horizontal crack. Descend as for Kim.

Protection

Up to 4".

Photos

Agreed with the softness of the rating on this - compare this with Fantasia - now THAT is burly 5.9. Still, I thought this was a fun route with a nice mix of climbing thrown in. Sep 2, 2003
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
I'd have to agree with Tony. The bottom chimney section is probably 5.7/5.8 and very secure. The crux finger crack I'd call 5.9, but it is a one move wonder with protection at your nose. Jul 9, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8-
This route requires nothing larger than a #4 camalot to protect well...

If the route would not have somehow been rated 5.9 (are you kidding?) it would then be one of the easiest 5.8's at Vedauvoo. The feet in the sqeeze chimney are so good that you should not have much trouble. Easier still for small people. Jul 7, 2002