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Routes in Poland Hill

Ape Walk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Voo, The T V8 7B
Bistro, The 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
Boulder Hopper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clean and Jerk T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cool Jet T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cumulus V10- 7C+
Estrogen Patch Remover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fantasia T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green With Envy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
Kim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Old Crack aka Boulder Hop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orbital Ridge T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overload T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Petit Crapon T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Piece of Dirt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Remote Control T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skull T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soul of a Poet V5 6C
Southwest Friction S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stem Christie T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sugar Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sweet Finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tanfasia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Toadstool V2-3 5+
Underachiever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Jim Halfpenny, Alice Stevenson, Ted Cross--1967
Page Views: 191 total · 1/month
Shared By: Rich Farnham on Jul 7, 2005
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details


This short pitch is on the opposite side of the Rat Brain from the popular and easily located routes Kim and Fantasia. It is one of the few routes in the shade until late in the day, so it is a good choice while you wait for the other routes at Poland Hill to cool off.

Start in an alcove with an OW crack forming the left side and bulge on the right that has a thin crack starting about 15' up. For the OW fiends, this route could probably be done by only climbing the wide crack. Most of us will probably do a combination of some wild stemming moves, a bit of off-width, and some standard jamming higher up as the crack narrows.

I belayed on the large flat ledge at the end of the difficulties. Two options exist from here. Apparently you can walk off to the South from here. Or, as we did, you can follow the crack you just climbed through the narrow chimney, and hang a right to get to the base of "Boulder Hopper", another fun (yet short) 5.9 crack that gets you to the top of the Rat Brain, and the rap anchor at the top of Fantasia.

This route is very short (40') but I still give it 2 stars because of how cool the moves were. Anywhere else I would probably consider this a 1 star route because of its length, but for some reason at Vedauwoo these short routes still seem worthwhile.


This route could probably be done with a standard rack and no big gear as there is a small crack alongside the main crack. I found it useful to have 2-3 #3 Camalots and was very happy with the #5 Camalot I had near the start.


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R Sather
Doesn't seem as hard as the other 9+ around the Voo. Maybe because of length or the fact you have other things to stem off of. Entrance into the crack I could see being the most challenging "cruxish" part of the climb. Great fun and practice for OW. Sep 23, 2014

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