Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 591 total · 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 15, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This route is on the left side of Poland Hill as the Rat Brain sits to the right. On that left side, a stack of 4 large features is split down the center by a slightly right-leaning thin hands crack that goes vertical then curves gracefuly to left leaning as it passes each of 3 horizontal cracks/bulges to reach a slot up top (5 feet long) and a slab on the left abover that. Climb this surprisingly good system to the top of the slab to a crappy fixed anchor.. Belay here with a back up on your gear.

To exit, top out back behind you (all of the way) and walk over toward the base of the rat brain, just below the climbs Fantasia and Kim.

This route is the left-most prominant crack system in the attached photo.

Protection

Good gear from 1.5-4, getting progressively larger on the way up. Perhaps take extra 2.5-3.5" pcs.

Photos