Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 504 total · 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 15, 2004
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route

31 Opinions

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details


This route is on the left side of Poland Hill as the Rat Brain sits to the right. On that left side, a stack of 4 large features is split down the center by a slightly right-leaning thin hands crack that goes vertical then curves gracefuly to left leaning as it passes each of 3 horizontal cracks/bulges to reach a slot up top (5 feet long) and a slab on the left abover that. Climb this surprisingly good system to the top of the slab to a crappy fixed anchor.. Belay here with a back up on your gear.

To exit, top out back behind you (all of the way) and walk over toward the base of the rat brain, just below the climbs Fantasia and Kim.

This route is the left-most prominant crack system in the attached photo.


Good gear from 1.5-4, getting progressively larger on the way up. Perhaps take extra 2.5-3.5" pcs.


The climbing was completely enjoyable; from the hand crack at the start to pulling the roof at the exit.

However, belaying from an anchor in the shallow horizontal to the left of the crack makes for a dangerous last move for the follower. Does anyone have any hints? Jul 9, 2004
Tyler Smeenk
Laramie, WY
Tyler Smeenk   Laramie, WY
Maybe the anchors have changed since the last post, we did not have any problems leading and TR'ing the route. Anyway, I was wondering what side (right/left) most people entered the last roof. I went left side in first when leading and felt like I was going to fall out. My buddy finished the lead and I TR'd it going right side in first, fealing much better. Just wondering if anybody had any thoughts. Aug 20, 2007
Johan Grahnen
Palo Alto, CA
Johan Grahnen   Palo Alto, CA
Right side in felt fine to me -- decent feet. The sideways chimneying afterward was a hoot, too. May 4, 2008
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
This route has rappel anchors, but they are nearly impossible to spot if you climb the chimney right side in. Do yourself a favor: as soon as the chimney eases in difficulty, look to climbers right, up and out of the chimney. May 7, 2017