Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Poland Hill

Ape Walk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Voo, The T V8 7B
Bistro, The 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
Boulder Hopper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clean and Jerk T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cool Jet T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cumulus V10- 7C+
Estrogen Patch Remover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fantasia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green With Envy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
Kim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Old Crack aka Boulder Hop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orbital Ridge T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overload T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Petit Crapon T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Piece of Dirt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Remote Control T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skull T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soul of a Poet V5 6C
Southwest Friction S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stem Christie T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sugar Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sweet Finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tanfasia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Toadstool V2-3 5+
Underachiever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 367 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 15, 2004
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


30 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This route is on the left side of Poland Hill as the Rat Brain sits to the right. On that left side, a stack of 4 large features is split down the center by a slightly right-leaning thin hands crack that goes vertical then curves gracefuly to left leaning as it passes each of 3 horizontal cracks/bulges to reach a slot up top (5 feet long) and a slab on the left abover that. Climb this surprisingly good system to the top of the slab to a crappy fixed anchor.. Belay here with a back up on your gear.

To exit, top out back behind you (all of the way) and walk over toward the base of the rat brain, just below the climbs Fantasia and Kim.

This route is the left-most prominant crack system in the attached photo.

Protection

Good gear from 1.5-4, getting progressively larger on the way up. Perhaps take extra 2.5-3.5" pcs.
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
This route has rappel anchors, but they are nearly impossible to spot if you climb the chimney right side in. Do yourself a favor: as soon as the chimney eases in difficulty, look to climbers right, up and out of the chimney. May 7, 2017
Johan Grahnen
Palo Alto, CA
Johan Grahnen   Palo Alto, CA
Right side in felt fine to me -- decent feet. The sideways chimneying afterward was a hoot, too. May 4, 2008
Tyler Smeenk
Laramie, WY
  5.9
Tyler Smeenk   Laramie, WY
  5.9
Maybe the anchors have changed since the last post, we did not have any problems leading and TR'ing the route. Anyway, I was wondering what side (right/left) most people entered the last roof. I went left side in first when leading and felt like I was going to fall out. My buddy finished the lead and I TR'd it going right side in first, fealing much better. Just wondering if anybody had any thoughts. Aug 20, 2007
The climbing was completely enjoyable; from the hand crack at the start to pulling the roof at the exit.

However, belaying from an anchor in the shallow horizontal to the left of the crack makes for a dangerous last move for the follower. Does anyone have any hints? Jul 9, 2004