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Routes in Poland Hill

Ape Walk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Voo, The T V8 7B
Bistro, The 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
Boulder Hopper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clean and Jerk T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cool Jet T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cumulus V10- 7C+
Estrogen Patch Remover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fantasia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green With Envy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
Kim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Old Crack aka Boulder Hop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orbital Ridge T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overload T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Petit Crapon T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Piece of Dirt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Remote Control T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skull T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soul of a Poet V5 6C
Southwest Friction S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stem Christie T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sugar Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sweet Finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tanfasia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Toadstool V2-3 5+
Underachiever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,766 total, 25/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jan 11, 2002
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This route is worth doing if you are in the area. It is located about 50 feet to the right of Fantasia.

P1: Follow the acute leaning dihedral for 50 feet. A #3.5 or #4 Camalot is useful if you want to sew up the exit face moves out of the top of the crack.

P2: Follow the path of least resistance to the top of the formation.

Descent: A one rope rap off of the anchors above Kim (5.6) will get you to the ground.

Protection

Pro to 2" with optional #4 Camalot.
Dom R
Estes Park, Colorado
Dom R   Estes Park, Colorado
Rap bolts are still in place at the top of the first pitch. Nice, clean rappel back to Earth from there, way more convenient than scrambling up to the Kim anchors, especially if people are climbing over there. Jun 3, 2017
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.7
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.7
That's a protection bolt for that slab which, if memory serves, was an Orenzak route. It's been there since I first did Sugar Crack, back in 2003 or 2004.

Tangentially, I really REALLY wish people would stop throwing around bolt chopping as some sort of legitimate approach to climbing management at Vedauwoo. We've had a spectacularly amicable relationship with the Forest Service, and I'd hate to see that go away because certain people insist on a strict ground-up ethic that's historically alien to the area. Vedauwoo is predominantly a crack climbing area, true, but it was also the lab for Piana and Skinner to develop the hang-dog approach with removable protection. Aug 14, 2012
Scott Coffin
Riverside, CA
Scott Coffin   Riverside, CA
I was up here today 08/13/12, and I noticed a freshly placed bolt about five feet to the right of this crack 1/4 of the way up the route. After the bolt there is no more protection, so either the bolt is for the extremely runout slab climb to the right of Sugar Crack, or it is a very unnecessary and irresponsibly placed bolt, and should be chopped.

Any info? Aug 13, 2012
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.8+
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.8+
Easy to walk off after P1. This gets 5.6 in the new guide, which applies some kind of peculiar Vedauwoo renormalization. The local grading system is so insular that it is completely disconnected from other areas. Probably HVS 5a in UK grades for the awkward-sized finish. Oct 15, 2011
colin tuck
Moab
colin tuck   Moab
There are indeed bolts at the top of the first pitch. I suspect someone wanted to take newbies out toproping here, there is no other goddamn reason for them. Lame. Chop 'em. May 27, 2009
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.7
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.7
Steve, do you mean the top of the first pitch, or the top of the second pitch? If it's the first pitch, those need to be removed. There is not a single reason to rap from there, as the walk-off is short and easy, there's a horn you can sling to rap from, and the rappel eats ropes. If it's the second pitch, well, that's different. Jun 16, 2008
Steve Prager
Laramie, Wy
 
Steve Prager   Laramie, Wy
 
Fun climb, definitely worth checking out. There are big fat rap bolts at the top of the main pitch, just after you exit the wide section. Jun 15, 2008
Brian Story
  5.7
Brian Story  
  5.7
Good climb for jamming practice. Bring gear up to a #3 Camalot. Do it as one pitch. I think the 5.7- grade is fair by Vedauwoo standards. Nov 14, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
That was Boulder Hopper (listed on the site), a physical 5.9 on arm-bars. To maintain the 5.7 grade you continue straight back up the lower angle rock instead of doing Boulder Hopper, on the left. Jul 25, 2006
Sam Benedict
Denver, CO
  5.7
Sam Benedict   Denver, CO
  5.7
Sugar Crack is very sugary, very sweet. Typical Vedauwoo 5.7, not entirely easy. My memory is foggy of this climb, but I think I did an alternate second pitch. My buddy called it "boulder hop", It was only about 30' tall, starts with some fun wide stemming off another boulder, after that ends there are a couple of in-your-face fisting/stacking moves, then your done. I had to hang at the stacking section, walked away with a huge gobbie, but sent it second effort. Is this the usual second pitch? If so... what the F**k?!? Jul 25, 2006
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
This is a fine route. Judicious use of the right foot in and on the right side of the trough will make all the difference... Feb 2, 2006
Sara
Conifer, CO
  5.7
Sara   Conifer, CO
  5.7
This was one of my favorite climbs at Vedauwoo! We did have trouble figuring out how to get over to Kim from the top to rap down and ended up just walking off the backside. Oct 18, 2005
Matt Chan
Boulder
  5.7+
Matt Chan   Boulder
  5.7+
Moves out of the crack on P1 felt hard for 5.7. Gear to a #2 camalot was sufficient. P2 - one star only, next time I'll run the two together. Oct 11, 2004
this was my first, and to date only climb at vedauwoo. the guidebook i was going by said 5.6. looking up at this nice-looking crack i thought it was going to be a nice stroll, since i lead 5.8 pretty comfortably. about halfway up, i discovered that what they say about the steep nature of vedauwoo rating is true! here it is listed 5.7, i felt like it was 8+. i think what made it seem so hard was the total lack of face features. by the top i was literally begging for a crimp. still, i enjoyed it (i think) and when i feel like eating more humble pie, i will return to vedauwoo! May 16, 2004
Great route - much more interesting than Kim (which I thought was waaaaay over rated as a 'classic'). Some pretty stiff moves on this at times, I thought this was only slightly easier than Petit Crapon. Sep 2, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Looks vaguely like Butt Crack to me... Aug 22, 2002
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
This route can easily be done as a single pitch - ropedrag is not a problem. From the top of the main 40' crack, walk forward and move up easy ramp to the left. Follow easy crack to top and belay in horizontal crack. Jun 26, 2002
Hill  
It is easy to walk off to the west from the top of the first pitch if people are occuping the anchors on Kim... May 6, 2002
This is certainly a fun pitch. There are some nice stems that make it even easier. Feb 20, 2002