Kim

My climbing partner speakth the truth. This route is great! The start is a bit slabby until you reach the left to right leaning crack. She's a short outing but well worth the visit. Jul 31, 2001

Kim is a fun crack but it is super short. Seems like all the pictures of it make it look like a perfect hand/finger crack that goes on forever. Ed's Crack is ten times better than this thing. Mar 18, 2002

The "perfect" part of Ed's is about the same length. Ed's is better (although not ten times better) only because you combine the perfect (if short) hand crack with an OW start, airy step across, insecure slab moves to the crack, and a thrutching OW bulge to finish. As a "pure" crack climb, Kim is better. Mar 18, 2002

For me and my [average] sized hands, this seemed more like a finger crack. I got my hands in below and above the 15 feet of steep climbing, but in the crux a #1 camalot won't go in. Stoppers or TCUs will be what you want for pro. The thin crack makes it tough to practice a real foot jam too. In my opinion, Kim's is not the best crack for trying to teach someone to climb a crack May 8, 2002

I agree that with average or slightly bigger than average sized hands, this is definitely a finger crack. Great climb for my first trip to Vedauwoo, only wish it was a longer route just like everyone.Biggest pro I placed was a .75 camalot. Aug 21, 2002

Wonderful first Vedauwoo trad lead. . . If you have small to mediium size hands it is the perfect size! Gets fingery at the top, but the crack seems just deep enough! Aug 28, 2002

And with big, fat fingers its even more exciting!!! Aug 28, 2002

The climber in the photo I posted is Roger Wilkerson. Nice fall colors! Sep 17, 2002

I still don't enjoy this thing, so its all the better that it seems to be the only reason people come out to Poland Hill. For setting up top ropes for other harder climbs, Southwest Friction is faster and easier. I just can't seem to convince myself that 35 feet of rattly fingers can be all that fun compared to about 60 feet of good hands (and occasional offwidth feet) on Edward's. Has anyone here tried Skull? Anyone? Aug 16, 2003

Several people recommended this route to us - at best I thought it was a fun warm up, but a classic? No way, not even close to the same league as Edward's Crack. I thought Sugar Crack, Petit Crapon, and Fantasia were all much nicer routes.

Wouldn't hike out to Poland Hill just to climb this one route (which rules it out as a classic in my book). Sep 3, 2003

This can only be considered a classic if you're a boulderer! The route is only 30' long and for the length of the approach and the size of the normal crowds waiting in line makes it only worth 1 star in my book. Sep 3, 2003

Don't bringing anything bigger than .75 camalot (as said above) unless you want to build an anchor in lieu of the big fat sexy bolts at the top of Southwest Friction. And if you must toprope at this crag, try Fantasia, Sugar Crack, or Skull. They're much more worth your time than this. Jan 22, 2004

this is an exciting little seam with a nice approach. i think it fairly deserves two stars. if you're just cruising the area and are interested in the full experience of the climb, it's worth it. a nice warm-up to other climbs in the area as well. Jan 23, 2004

The real climbing only last about 20 ft so imho would not be worth the hike out there if that is your only objective. However, if you have the place to yourselves, as we did today, it is fun to take laps on it and practice different crack technics, i.e. both feet in crack, one foot in, layback version, hand jams version, etc. 4-5 small to medium pieces are plenty to get you up safely. Jul 18, 2005

I have to give this one two stars because it was my first lead. If anyone is looking for something short and easy to do a trad lead on, Kim is the one. My hands are average for a girl and I got some great hand jams in the beginning and solid fingers at the top, just keep your right foot on the crystals and it's a cruise. Jul 25, 2005

Great and really fun route...but too short. This was really easy but so much fun with the angle of the crack not being straight up. Oct 9, 2005

For aesthetics, this line is hard to beat, second to fantasia for the most striking line at the formation IMHO. It is also great first lead b/c it is short and forgiving. Oct 10, 2005

A beautiful and fun crack climb...but , oh so short. Oct 18, 2005

This is a good first 5.6 lead and may feel soft compared to the wider 5.6 climbs at Vedauwoo. I agree that the climb is pretty short. Be sure to check out the 5.6 handcrack around the corner. Nov 14, 2006

I agree that the climb is short and somewhat of a novelty climb, but that aside, it's in an amazing setting, with a commanding position. The line itself is striking from a distance, and it takes good gear. I call it a classic for aesthetic reasons alone. For a new leader, or someone that is a 5.6-5.7 leader this would be a nice tick, just because you can sew it up and enjoy an amazing climb at the same time.

We lucked out and there weren't really any crowds, though we did end up sharing the route with three different parties at different times. Jun 20, 2010

5.6 is a typically Vedauwoo grade. This would get VS 5a in the UK. Great little climb. Oct 15, 2011

This climb really covers a large range of sizes (like a lot of cracks at Vedauwoo, it seems). I have averaged sized hands and found most of it to be fingers to loose fingers, some of it to be hands, and loose hands towards the top. Super clean route. Way too much fun to lead but way too short. This was my first trip up this way, and after starting off with a few 5.4s and 5.5s (Foolishness, Boulder Hop) that kicked my butt, the 5.6 rating of Kim had me worried. I found this climb to be much easier/straightforward than most of those lower rated climbs. Have no fear, this one is no pain and all fun! Jul 5, 2013

So fun, awesome setting and bomber gear. Mar 28, 2017