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Routes in Poland Hill

Ape Walk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Voo, The T V8 7B
Bistro, The 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
Boulder Hopper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clean and Jerk T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cool Jet T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cumulus V10- 7C+
Estrogen Patch Remover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fantasia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green With Envy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
Kim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Old Crack aka Boulder Hop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orbital Ridge T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overload T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Petit Crapon T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Piece of Dirt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Remote Control T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skull T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soul of a Poet V5 6C
Southwest Friction S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stem Christie T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sugar Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sweet Finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tanfasia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Toadstool V2-3 5+
Underachiever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,058 total, 51/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Jul 30, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a beautiful and a well-deserved Vedauwoo classic, and also an excellent beginner lead. Kim is the right-angling crack on the Rat Brain clearly visible on the approach. Approach the Rat Brain as described on the main page and on the Piece of Dirt route description. Continue up past Piece of Dirt to the left side of the semicircular/circular flake.

This climb eats about any gear and provides perfect jams for hands and feet all the way up to the now-bomber two-bolt anchor. There may be one of the old spinner 1/4 inchers left up there as well, which used to make for an uncomfortable rap down. Four stars.

Protection

A set of hexes and larger sized stoppers will get you up in style. If you insist on technology, a standard rack with nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot will also work.
tkessel Kessel
Windsor,CO
  5.7
tkessel Kessel   Windsor,CO
  5.7
So fun, awesome setting and bomber gear. Mar 28, 2017
Eben Daggett
Boulder, CO
  5.6
Eben Daggett   Boulder, CO
  5.6
This climb really covers a large range of sizes (like a lot of cracks at Vedauwoo, it seems). I have averaged sized hands and found most of it to be fingers to loose fingers, some of it to be hands, and loose hands towards the top. Super clean route. Way too much fun to lead but way too short. This was my first trip up this way, and after starting off with a few 5.4s and 5.5s (Foolishness, Boulder Hop) that kicked my butt, the 5.6 rating of Kim had me worried. I found this climb to be much easier/straightforward than most of those lower rated climbs. Have no fear, this one is no pain and all fun! Jul 5, 2013
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.7+
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.7+
5.6 is a typically Vedauwoo grade. This would get VS 5a in the UK. Great little climb. Oct 15, 2011
Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
 
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
 
I agree that the climb is short and somewhat of a novelty climb, but that aside, it's in an amazing setting, with a commanding position. The line itself is striking from a distance, and it takes good gear. I call it a classic for aesthetic reasons alone. For a new leader, or someone that is a 5.6-5.7 leader this would be a nice tick, just because you can sew it up and enjoy an amazing climb at the same time.

We lucked out and there weren't really any crowds, though we did end up sharing the route with three different parties at different times. Jun 20, 2010
Brian Story
  5.6
Brian Story  
  5.6
This is a good first 5.6 lead and may feel soft compared to the wider 5.6 climbs at Vedauwoo. I agree that the climb is pretty short. Be sure to check out the 5.6 handcrack around the corner. Nov 14, 2006
Sara
Conifer, CO
  5.6
Sara   Conifer, CO
  5.6
A beautiful and fun crack climb...but , oh so short. Oct 18, 2005
Danny
  5.6
Danny  
  5.6
For aesthetics, this line is hard to beat, second to fantasia for the most striking line at the formation IMHO. It is also great first lead b/c it is short and forgiving. Oct 10, 2005
Sara
Conifer, CO
  5.6
Sara   Conifer, CO
  5.6
Great and really fun route...but too short. This was really easy but so much fun with the angle of the crack not being straight up. Oct 9, 2005
Stefanie Van Wychen
Denver, CO
  5.6
Stefanie Van Wychen   Denver, CO
  5.6
I have to give this one two stars because it was my first lead. If anyone is looking for something short and easy to do a trad lead on, Kim is the one. My hands are average for a girl and I got some great hand jams in the beginning and solid fingers at the top, just keep your right foot on the crystals and it's a cruise. Jul 25, 2005
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
 
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
 
The real climbing only last about 20 ft so imho would not be worth the hike out there if that is your only objective. However, if you have the place to yourselves, as we did today, it is fun to take laps on it and practice different crack technics, i.e. both feet in crack, one foot in, layback version, hand jams version, etc. 4-5 small to medium pieces are plenty to get you up safely. Jul 18, 2005
Brian Weinstein  
  5.6
this is an exciting little seam with a nice approach. i think it fairly deserves two stars. if you're just cruising the area and are interested in the full experience of the climb, it's worth it. a nice warm-up to other climbs in the area as well. Jan 23, 2004
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.6
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.6
Don't bringing anything bigger than .75 camalot (as said above) unless you want to build an anchor in lieu of the big fat sexy bolts at the top of Southwest Friction. And if you must toprope at this crag, try Fantasia, Sugar Crack, or Skull. They're much more worth your time than this. Jan 22, 2004
This can only be considered a classic if you're a boulderer! The route is only 30' long and for the length of the approach and the size of the normal crowds waiting in line makes it only worth 1 star in my book. Sep 3, 2003
Several people recommended this route to us - at best I thought it was a fun warm up, but a classic? No way, not even close to the same league as Edward's Crack. I thought Sugar Crack, Petit Crapon, and Fantasia were all much nicer routes.

Wouldn't hike out to Poland Hill just to climb this one route (which rules it out as a classic in my book). Sep 3, 2003
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.6
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.6
I still don't enjoy this thing, so its all the better that it seems to be the only reason people come out to Poland Hill. For setting up top ropes for other harder climbs, Southwest Friction is faster and easier. I just can't seem to convince myself that 35 feet of rattly fingers can be all that fun compared to about 60 feet of good hands (and occasional offwidth feet) on Edward's. Has anyone here tried Skull? Anyone? Aug 16, 2003
Kevin Currigan
Lakewood
Kevin Currigan   Lakewood
The climber in the photo I posted is Roger Wilkerson. Nice fall colors! Sep 17, 2002
Tyson S Arp  
 
And with big, fat fingers its even more exciting!!! Aug 28, 2002

 
Wonderful first Vedauwoo trad lead. . . If you have small to mediium size hands it is the perfect size! Gets fingery at the top, but the crack seems just deep enough! Aug 28, 2002
Mike Epke
Denver, CO
Mike Epke   Denver, CO
I agree that with average or slightly bigger than average sized hands, this is definitely a finger crack. Great climb for my first trip to Vedauwoo, only wish it was a longer route just like everyone.Biggest pro I placed was a .75 camalot. Aug 21, 2002
Hill  
For me and my [average] sized hands, this seemed more like a finger crack. I got my hands in below and above the 15 feet of steep climbing, but in the crux a #1 camalot won't go in. Stoppers or TCUs will be what you want for pro. The thin crack makes it tough to practice a real foot jam too. In my opinion, Kim's is not the best crack for trying to teach someone to climb a crack May 8, 2002
Darin Lang  
 
The "perfect" part of Ed's is about the same length. Ed's is better (although not ten times better) only because you combine the perfect (if short) hand crack with an OW start, airy step across, insecure slab moves to the crack, and a thrutching OW bulge to finish. As a "pure" crack climb, Kim is better. Mar 18, 2002
Kim is a fun crack but it is super short. Seems like all the pictures of it make it look like a perfect hand/finger crack that goes on forever. Ed's Crack is ten times better than this thing. Mar 18, 2002
Scott Hansen
Westminster, CO
Scott Hansen   Westminster, CO
My climbing partner speakth the truth. This route is great! The start is a bit slabby until you reach the left to right leaning crack. She's a short outing but well worth the visit. Jul 31, 2001