Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 14,427 total · 62/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Jul 30, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a beautiful and a well-deserved Vedauwoo classic, and also an excellent beginner lead. Kim is the right-angling crack on the Rat Brain clearly visible on the approach. Approach the Rat Brain as described on the main page and on the Piece of Dirt route description. Continue up past Piece of Dirt to the left side of the semicircular/circular flake.

This climb eats about any gear and provides perfect jams for hands and feet all the way up to the now-bomber two-bolt anchor. There may be one of the old spinner 1/4 inchers left up there as well, which used to make for an uncomfortable rap down. Four stars.

Protection

A set of hexes and larger sized stoppers will get you up in style. If you insist on technology, a standard rack with nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot will also work.

Photos