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Routes in Poland Hill

Ape Walk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Voo, The T V8 7B
Bistro, The 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
Boulder Hopper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clean and Jerk T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cool Jet T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cumulus V10- 7C+
Estrogen Patch Remover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fantasia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green With Envy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
Kim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Old Crack aka Boulder Hop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orbital Ridge T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overload T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Petit Crapon T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Piece of Dirt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Remote Control T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skull T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soul of a Poet V5 6C
Southwest Friction S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stem Christie T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sugar Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sweet Finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tanfasia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Toadstool V2-3 5+
Underachiever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Tim Rangistch
Page Views: 1,624 total, 8/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Jul 30, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Piece of Dirt is located on the "Rat Brain" section of Poland Hill, on top and to the right as you approach. It is the first route of any substance to the right of the obvious, right-angling, Kim crack, and is an equal distance to the left of the classic and equally obvious, plumbline offwidth Fantasia. Once you get up to the Rat Brain (done by circling around to the east of Poland Hill and then following your nose up some slabs), the route will be the reasonably clear line of fairly new bolts (in 1999) following the right side of a large, semi-circular flake to a slab above.

Launch yourself into a full-on lieback on the flake, clipping the first three bolts in the process (10-). Make sure you are solid before pulling up rope for the clips - it's easy to blow it and launch yourself from this position. Make the transition from lieback to vertical slab (crux), and then follow the slab past two more bolts to a bolted anchor up and right. Although the rope drag leaves something to be desired, can be TR'd by leaving the last bolt clipped as a directional.

Protection

5 QDs plus something for the anchor.

Photos

bart cubrich 1
  5.11-
bart cubrich 1  
  5.11-
The last three bolts on this route have very rusty nuts and bolts, though the hangers look fine. The very last bolt is not as bad as 3 or 4. If someone wants to replace the bolts, just keep on mind that retro bolting is frowned on in the Voo. This route is really sweet though, and the present bolt spacing makes it pretty exciting. Jul 26, 2016
Tom Rangitsch
Lander, WY
Tom Rangitsch   Lander, WY
This route was originally done placing gear blindly behind the layback flake. Tim added the bottom few bolts after someone broke their ankles falling and zippering their gear. Aug 23, 2011
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
F.A. Tim Rangistch. Aug 22, 2011
climber73
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10d
climber73   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10d
If you think this feels run out or 11ish, go and lead Fall Wall and Gunga Din. After those this route feels like a pretty laid back 5.10+. 5.9ish laybacking at the bottom, 1 move 5.10+ crux, finish on 5.9+ and easier slab.

I really enjoyed this route. Jun 26, 2007
Dylan Kuhn
Reno, NV
 
Dylan Kuhn   Reno, NV
 
The second clip is a bit of a puzzle to me. I made a dicey clip from below where I still felt okay about falling on the first bolt. The better, more liebacked, stance next to the bolt I would not want to blow. Love the climb, though. Apr 29, 2007
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
The layback flake is pretty positive. Don't dawdle at the top of the flake! Oct 1, 2005
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
Instead of using the bolted anchors up there for toproping, build an anchor (1-2" seemed to work well) straight up from the last bolt. Much less rope drag in general. Apr 16, 2004
Chris Dawson
Denver, CO
Chris Dawson   Denver, CO
This is a fun pitch. I remember it feeling a little spacey between the bolts after the crux. There are still some slab moves to be had. But, that's what I liked about it. Apr 11, 2002
Darin Lang  
 
A photo of this climb can be seen at vedauwoo.org/images/PolClim… Sep 26, 2001