Type: Sport
FA: Tim Rangistch
Page Views: 2,190 total · 10/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Jul 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Piece of Dirt is located on the "Rat Brain" section of Poland Hill, on top and to the right as you approach. It is the first route of any substance to the right of the obvious, right-angling, Kim crack, and is an equal distance to the left of the classic and equally obvious, plumbline offwidth Fantasia. Once you get up to the Rat Brain (done by circling around to the east of Poland Hill and then following your nose up some slabs), the route will be the reasonably clear line of fairly new bolts (in 1999) following the right side of a large, semi-circular flake to a slab above.

Launch yourself into a full-on lieback on the flake, clipping the first three bolts in the process (10-). Make sure you are solid before pulling up rope for the clips - it's easy to blow it and launch yourself from this position. Make the transition from lieback to vertical slab (crux), and then follow the slab past two more bolts to a bolted anchor up and right. Although the rope drag leaves something to be desired, can be TR'd by leaving the last bolt clipped as a directional.

Protection

5 QDs plus something for the anchor.

Photos