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Routes in Sheep's Nose

10 Sheep and a Goat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
An Apostle or Two T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Army Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Assassination Slab T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chinook T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Direct Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Evening Stroll T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Wimps Only T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Fleece T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Golden Spike, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hard Monkeys T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Harpoon The Manta Ray T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
It Is Time to Space aka The Sheep Eat Grass T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lamb's Prey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost in Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Man Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ozone Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pimp, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pit of Despair, The V0 4 R
Psycho Babble T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seamis T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sheep in Wolves Clothing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sheep with a Silver Tail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
SheepÂ’s Dare T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sheer Sheep Attack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Southeast Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Space Cadet T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ten Years After T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
When Sheep are Nervous T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 805 total · 4/month
Shared By: pete cogan on May 10, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a fun, interesting route with cracks and slabs and routefinding. The first two pitches are the most difficult.

P1 begins right of Lost in Space. There are two very large trees at the base of the cliff; start to the left of the left tree, climbing through a short chimney up to a large rock with a disappearing grassy crack above you. Go up the crack, then work left with a big, slanting roof above you. There is a good belay in a notch, 5.9.

P2 goes up a thin crack which disappears over a bulge. [On your right is the 10b variation in Hubbel's guide.] After the bulge, climb up in a wide, blocky crack and belay in a nice alcove with a 5 foot wide roof above you, 5.9.

These first two pitches are 5.9. After the second pitch, there are several options. What follows is a moderate option.

P3 goes right around the small roof, then use various crack systems and belay above the 3 very solid pitons, 5.8+.

P4 goes through more cracks and then a 5.7-ish slab runout. This pitch was around 170 feet. It has a very nice belay on a grassy/bushy ledge.

P5 goes left around the rock above you along a left-slanting crack, then easy terrain to the summit. It is 140 feet or so.

Descent: walk off to the left and the back side. This is mild downclimbing, no ropes are needed.

Protection

Standard rack to #3 Camalot. Hubbel suggest wires and #1 Friends. A full set of stoppers, medium hexes, and tri-cams were helpful.

Photos

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pete cogan  
 
My apologies: this is definitely at least a 2 star route, not a one star route. I look forward to doing it again. May 13, 2002