Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown as an aid route, FFA: Leonard Coyne, Dennis Jackson, & Mark Rolofson, December 1975
Page Views: 9,559 total · 34/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Jun 9, 2001 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Ten Years After is an excellent, basically one-pitch climb located on the South face of Sheep's Nose. Locating the route is straightforward - it is in the massive, right-facing dihedral on the left side of Sheep's Nose as you approach.

P1 - climb straight up the obvious crack in the dihedral, using a few jams, laybacks where necessary, and a couple of opportune face holds. The entire pitch is fairly sustained, but the crux probably comes in the first 25 feet, until you move past the obvious, wide section. The gear placements on this section are more than adequate but not quite as straightforward as it appears from the base - the crack flares to the inside. The upper section protects well with nuts and small cams. We rapped off from a nest of slings at the top of P1 (60m rope was plenty, I suspect you would be fine with a 50m).

P2 continues up the dihedral. There is one bouldery move right off the belay (you can easily protect the belay though), followed by a long 5.easy ramp for the rest of the pitch that takes you to the walk-off. The first moves are fun, but that's where the climbing basically ends.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack to at least #4 Friend. #5 might add some peace of mind but is not necessary.