Ten Years After
Avg: 3.1 from 38 votes
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||6,204 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||Darin Lang on Jun 9, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionAn excellent, basically one-pitch climb located on the South face of Sheep's Nose. Locating the route is straightforward - it is in the massive, right-facing dihedral on the left side of Sheep's Nose as you approach.
P1 - climb straight up the obvious crack in the dihedral, using a few jams, laybacks where necessary, and a couple of opportune face holds. The entire pitch is fairly sustained, but the crux probably comes in the first 25 feet, until you move past the obvious, wide section. The gear placements on this section are more than adequate but not quite as straightforward as it appears from the base - the crack flares to the inside. The upper section protects well with nuts and small cams. We rapped off from a nest of slings at the top of P1 (60m rope was plenty, I suspect you would be fine with a 50m).
P2 continues up the dihedral, and appears to have one hard move before taking an easy ramp to the walk-off.