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Routes in Sheep's Nose

10 Sheep and a Goat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
An Apostle or Two T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Army Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Assassination Slab T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chinook T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Direct Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Evening Stroll T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Wimps Only T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Fleece T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Golden Spike, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hard Monkeys T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Harpoon The Manta Ray T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
It Is Time to Space aka The Sheep Eat Grass T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lamb's Prey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost in Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Man Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ozone Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pimp, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pit of Despair, The V0 4 R
Psycho Babble T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seamis T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sheep in Wolves Clothing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sheep with a Silver Tail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
SheepÂ’s Dare T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sheer Sheep Attack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Southeast Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Space Cadet T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ten Years After T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
When Sheep are Nervous T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,204 total · 31/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Jun 9, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

An excellent, basically one-pitch climb located on the South face of Sheep's Nose. Locating the route is straightforward - it is in the massive, right-facing dihedral on the left side of Sheep's Nose as you approach.

P1 - climb straight up the obvious crack in the dihedral, using a few jams, laybacks where necessary, and a couple of opportune face holds. The entire pitch is fairly sustained, but the crux probably comes in the first 25 feet, until you move past the obvious, wide section. The gear placements on this section are more than adequate but not quite as straightforward as it appears from the base - the crack flares to the inside. The upper section protects well with nuts and small cams. We rapped off from a nest of slings at the top of P1 (60m rope was plenty, I suspect you would be fine with a 50m).

P2 continues up the dihedral, and appears to have one hard move before taking an easy ramp to the walk-off.

Protection

Standard rack to at least #4 Friend. #5 might add some peace of mind but is not necessary.
Pink Thunder
Lakewood
Pink Thunder   Lakewood
Excellent route, but it was a thrash to get up to it from Lost in Space. The feet are a lot better on this than they look like from the ground. My pal Mike led it and got a bomber #4 in. No real need for a #5, since you just have to make a couple moves and can then get in another bomber piece. Oct 10, 2013
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
 
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
 
This is a great, fun route, which felt easier than it looked from below.

It is easy to do this route in one pitch if you belay from the top. Stopping at the bolted anchor just feels like a bummer - you want to keep going in this beautiful corner. Jun 5, 2009
Luke Clarke
Golden
Luke Clarke   Golden
The nest of slings has been recently replaced by state-of-the-art bolts, which make for fine top roping your second on this line or on neighboring Seamis. If you do set up a top rope, take care to make sure the rope does not run near a flake out to the right of the crack near the top of the pitch which is the perfect size for trapping a rope. I speak from experience. Jun 6, 2006
Bo Johnston  
 
Just got back from climbing this excellent route a couple days ago. After getting Lost on "Lost in Space Direct" we rappelled down to find this wonderful route along with Chinook 5.9+*** and Whipporwill 5.8*. Being a Yosemite climber at heart, I found Ten Years to be nostalgic of the Valley's great walls. Great liebacks to underclings and thin face. We did not complete the last pitch either (doesn't seem like many do). Enjoy! May 22, 2004

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