Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,673 total · 7/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Sep 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

Just right of Ten Years After is a thin crack on a less then vertical wall that leads to a one foot roof and onto another face. It can be top-roped from the top of Ten Years After.

Up to the roof, the climbing is an exercise in smearing, balance and micro-crystal edging. Pulling through the roof is the crux and will have you wondering how you did it, if you do indeed do it! The face above remains very thin and balancy, but is protected by two bolts.

While the climb will greatly challenge someone who usually manages to nail most 5.11a climbs, it's hard to give it more than one star. Let's say that if you have just enjoyed Ten Year's After, it's a very worthwhile top-rope, but isn't a destination in itself.

Protection

Although neither my partner nor I led (or could have led) it, the pro is, as the book (Hubbel) says, thin: RPs and small wires to supplement the two bolts. There is some very tough climbing before the bolts, quite possibly the crux is over with before being able to clip.

Photos