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Routes in Sheep's Nose

10 Sheep and a Goat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
An Apostle or Two T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Army Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Assassination Slab T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chinook T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Direct Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Evening Stroll T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Wimps Only T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Fleece T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Golden Spike, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hard Monkeys T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Harpoon The Manta Ray T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
It Is Time to Space aka The Sheep Eat Grass T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lamb's Prey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost in Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Man Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ozone Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pimp, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pit of Despair, The V0 4 R
Psycho Babble T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seamis T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sheep in Wolves Clothing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sheep with a Silver Tail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
SheepÂ’s Dare T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sheer Sheep Attack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Southeast Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Space Cadet T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ten Years After T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
When Sheep are Nervous T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,971 total, 10/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Jun 9, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is found on the South Face of Sheep's nose, on the approach to Ten Years After and just right and down from that route. The route is fairly obvious - just look for a short, mostly vertical buttress with two cracks. The right-angling crack to the left is apparently a 5.9, and it looked like it would require some horticultural skills to protect it. Evening Stroll is the right crack. Perfect hands leads to a short crux (good fingerlock), and then a rest and easy jams to the walkoff. A TR would be very easy to set up here. I give it two stars only because it is so short and leads to nowhere - otherwise it would easily be three stars.

Protection

Light standard rack to #3 Camalot size - doubles in #2 Camalot/#2.5 Friend would be nice but not absolutely necessary.

Photos

Jfriday1
Conifer, CO
 
Jfriday1   Conifer, CO
 
Fun climb to rope solo if you want to get some laps in by yourself on a lonely day. :) Jul 6, 2017
Pete J. Lardy
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Pete J. Lardy   Colorado Springs, Colorado
"Tape is Aid" as we were once told. Don't listen to 'em man. I was told by Harvey C. that chalk is aid, I came out of a crack due to my sweaty fingers having not used chalk before this day. 30' fall! I then decided, climbing shoes could be considered aid. I use chalk sparingly, I tape up when I think I'll be needed, and I do wear rock shoes. Mar 22, 2009
Just led this route & had a blast. Being new to trad leading, this was a good chance to set gear with little to no complications. Oct 20, 2005
Bo Johnston  
 
Good route. My buddy, being new to trad leads, took the lead and sent it with a little trouble at the crux 2/3s of the way up. Jamming skills make or break this redpoint and tape wouldn't hurt (we didn't tape). 'cause, "Tape is Aid" as we were once told. J/KWe set an anchor at the top after climbing Chinook and left it to climb this route and then only one of us had to walk down to the right. May 22, 2004