Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,176 total · 10/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Jun 9, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Description

This route is found on the South Face of Sheep's nose, on the approach to Ten Years After and just right and down from that route. The route is fairly obvious - just look for a short, mostly vertical buttress with two cracks. The right-angling crack to the left is apparently a 5.9, and it looked like it would require some horticultural skills to protect it. Evening Stroll is the right crack. Perfect hands leads to a short crux (good fingerlock), and then a rest and easy jams to the walkoff. A TR would be very easy to set up here. I give it two stars only because it is so short and leads to nowhere - otherwise it would easily be three stars.

Protection

Light standard rack to #3 Camalot size - doubles in #2 Camalot/#2.5 Friend would be nice but not absolutely necessary.

Photos

Bo Johnston  
 
Good route. My buddy, being new to trad leads, took the lead and sent it with a little trouble at the crux 2/3s of the way up. Jamming skills make or break this redpoint and tape wouldn't hurt (we didn't tape). 'cause, "Tape is Aid" as we were once told. J/KWe set an anchor at the top after climbing Chinook and left it to climb this route and then only one of us had to walk down to the right. May 22, 2004
Just led this route & had a blast. Being new to trad leading, this was a good chance to set gear with little to no complications. Oct 20, 2005
Pete J. Lardy
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Pete J. Lardy   Colorado Springs, Colorado
"Tape is Aid" as we were once told. Don't listen to 'em man. I was told by Harvey C. that chalk is aid, I came out of a crack due to my sweaty fingers having not used chalk before this day. 30' fall! I then decided, climbing shoes could be considered aid. I use chalk sparingly, I tape up when I think I'll be needed, and I do wear rock shoes. Mar 22, 2009
Jfriday1
Golden, CO
 
Jfriday1   Golden, CO
 
Fun climb to rope solo if you want to get some laps in by yourself on a lonely day. :) Jul 6, 2017