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When Sheep are Nervous
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2 from 4
votes
Routes in Sheep's Nose
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10 Sheep and a Goat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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An Apostle or Two T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Army Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Assassination Slab T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Chinook T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Direct Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Evening Stroll T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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For Wimps Only T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Golden Fleece T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Golden Spike, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hard Monkeys T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Harpoon The Manta Ray T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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It Is Time to Space aka The Sheep Eat Grass T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Lamb's Prey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lost in Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Old Man Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ozone Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pimp, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pit of Despair, The V0 4 R |
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Psycho Babble T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Seamis T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Sheep in Wolves Clothing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Sheep with a Silver Tail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sheeps Dare T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sheer Sheep Attack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Southeast Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Space Cadet T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ten Years After T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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When Sheep are Nervous T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 878 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Phil Lauffen on Oct 27, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Description
P1. To the left of Lost in Space's first belay lie a few hand cracks. Scramble up to the large ledge containing this belay from the left, or climb the first pitch of Lost in Space. Choose one of these hand cracks and wander up until you are 40 feet or so below a triangular roof with a crack running through it. This part is kind of dirty. Set a belay here.
P2. Climb a sweet, large flake. Barndoor like me if you want a little excitement. At the rap tat below the roof, place a good nut, then place a good cam (#0.5 Camalot) in the crack under the roof, then figure out how to get on top. It took me a few tries. Then climb up the fun crack to the short headwall, clip my fixed Trango splitter cam, and pull over. From here, the most obvious line seemed to be to traverse right on easy ground until you are at the top of the first part of the last pitch of Lost in Space and right of Ozone Direct. Set a belay and climb the last part of either of these fine routes.
This is a good alternative when Lost in Space is full.
P2. Climb a sweet, large flake. Barndoor like me if you want a little excitement. At the rap tat below the roof, place a good nut, then place a good cam (#0.5 Camalot) in the crack under the roof, then figure out how to get on top. It took me a few tries. Then climb up the fun crack to the short headwall, clip my fixed Trango splitter cam, and pull over. From here, the most obvious line seemed to be to traverse right on easy ground until you are at the top of the first part of the last pitch of Lost in Space and right of Ozone Direct. Set a belay and climb the last part of either of these fine routes.
This is a good alternative when Lost in Space is full.
Location
To the left of Lost in Space, look up for the small, triangular roof with rap slings underneath it. Aim for that.
Golden, CO
Colorado Springs, Colorado