Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sheep's Nose

10 Sheep and a Goat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
An Apostle or Two T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Army Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Assassination Slab T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chinook T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Direct Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Evening Stroll T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Wimps Only T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Fleece T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Golden Spike, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hard Monkeys T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Harpoon The Manta Ray T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
It Is Time to Space aka The Sheep Eat Grass T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lamb's Prey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost in Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Man Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ozone Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pimp, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pit of Despair, The V0 4 R
Psycho Babble T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seamis T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sheep in Wolves Clothing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sheep with a Silver Tail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
SheepÂ’s Dare T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sheer Sheep Attack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Southeast Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Space Cadet T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ten Years After T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
When Sheep are Nervous T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 858 total, 9/month
Shared By: Phil Lauffen on Oct 27, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

P1. To the left of Lost in Space's first belay lie a few hand cracks. Scramble up to the large ledge containing this belay from the left, or climb the first pitch of Lost in Space. Choose one of these hand cracks and wander up until you are 40 feet or so below a triangular roof with a crack running through it. This part is kind of dirty. Set a belay here.

P2. Climb a sweet, large flake. Barndoor like me if you want a little excitement. At the rap tat below the roof, place a good nut, then place a good cam (#0.5 Camalot) in the crack under the roof, then figure out how to get on top. It took me a few tries. Then climb up the fun crack to the short headwall, clip my fixed Trango splitter cam, and pull over. From here, the most obvious line seemed to be to traverse right on easy ground until you are at the top of the first part of the last pitch of Lost in Space and right of Ozone Direct. Set a belay and climb the last part of either of these fine routes.

This is a good alternative when Lost in Space is full.

Location

To the left of Lost in Space, look up for the small, triangular roof with rap slings underneath it. Aim for that.

Protection

Standard rack. 1 of each cam, maybe doubles in hand and smaller. Nothing large is required.

Photos

Pete J. Lardy
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Pete J. Lardy   Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jonathan, sounds like you were on Virgin Wool, So. Platte 5.9+. Two roofs, one with no feet? Straight above two ringed pitons? Virgin Wool. Mar 15, 2015
Jonathan Stickel
Golden, CO
Jonathan Stickel   Golden, CO
Accidentally did this route or something nearby after missing pitch 2 of "Lost in Space". There was a piton in the crack of a left-facing dihedral of pitch 2, before reaching a roof. Is this the route? It felt harder than 5.9. Oct 26, 2013