Avg: 2.8 from 14 votes
|FA:||Bob D'Antonio and Peter Gallager|
|Page Views:||1,788 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Peter Spindloe on Sep 6, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionIn the long section or the Sheep's Nose between Ten Years After and the Lost in Space buttress there are a good number of single pitch climbs. Left of Evening Stroll is a giant flake leaning up against the wall. We climbed behind the flake, in the shade, until we got to the top of the flake where we could escape out onto the face via a "window." We set an intermediate belay here so the rope wouldn't be snaking behind the flake and then back out onto the face.
From the "window" move right (carefully since there are no pieces between the leader and the belay at this point) and head up the beautiful arching offset crack. As the angle of the crack changes so it points downward, the angle of the face decreases so you are smearing for the last few moves. It is at the end here where the extra large piece or two will be appreciated.
Although short, the combination of the shadowy flake start, and the high quality crack above make this worth two stars.