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Routes in Sheep's Nose

10 Sheep and a Goat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
An Apostle or Two T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Army Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Assassination Slab T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chinook T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Direct Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Evening Stroll T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Wimps Only T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Fleece T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Golden Spike, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hard Monkeys T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Harpoon The Manta Ray T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
It Is Time to Space aka The Sheep Eat Grass T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lamb's Prey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost in Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Man Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ozone Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pimp, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pit of Despair, The V0 4 R
Psycho Babble T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seamis T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sheep in Wolves Clothing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sheep with a Silver Tail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
SheepÂ’s Dare T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sheer Sheep Attack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Southeast Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Space Cadet T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ten Years After T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
When Sheep are Nervous T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Peter Gallager
Page Views: 1,872 total · 9/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Sep 6, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

In the long section or the Sheep's Nose between Ten Years After and the Lost in Space buttress there are a good number of single pitch climbs. Left of Evening Stroll is a giant flake leaning up against the wall. We climbed behind the flake, in the shade, until we got to the top of the flake where we could escape out onto the face via a "window." We set an intermediate belay here so the rope wouldn't be snaking behind the flake and then back out onto the face.

From the "window" move right (carefully since there are no pieces between the leader and the belay at this point) and head up the beautiful arching offset crack. As the angle of the crack changes so it points downward, the angle of the face decreases so you are smearing for the last few moves. It is at the end here where the extra large piece or two will be appreciated.

Although short, the combination of the shadowy flake start, and the high quality crack above make this worth two stars.

Protection

The initial section (behind the massive flake) will take some hand-size cams. The sustained thin crack portion is well protected with many wires and some small cams although it is strenuous to place or remove them. Save one or two larger pieces (#3 and #3.5 Camalots) for the final section.

Photos

Bo Johnston  
 
Incredible climb!! I wish I read the web description before I went out there. I only racked small cams for the finger crack and didn't realize that it could be desperate at the finish. I was looking at a good sized fall at the end and pressed a #0.5 Camalot into some moss and crossed my heart. From start to finish; a perfect climb. May 22, 2004
Sergio P
Idaho Springs, CO
  5.9+
Sergio P   Idaho Springs, CO
  5.9+
Going through the tunnel seems cool, but unnecessary. Climb the outside of the pillar at 5.9 and link the entire route in 1 pitch. Apr 30, 2007
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
This is a perfect finger crack route, four stars if it wasn't just one pitch. Solid for the grade.

The knobby face immediately to the left is great practice for crystal pitching! May 10, 2011
Kevin P
Loveland
Kevin P   Loveland
I am not really sure how this route is rated anywhere near 5.9. Feels way harder than Ozone Direct. Maybe I missed a jug or something. Jun 22, 2014
SammyJ
Colorado springs
 
SammyJ   Colorado springs
 
No problems with rope drag going through the tunnel. Second the motion of saving a 3 or 4 for the finish. Apr 16, 2018

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