Avg: 2.4 from 12 votes
|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Harvey T Carter, '70s|
|Page Views:||2,671 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Darin Lang on Apr 30, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
P1-2: Many variations. Keep walking right from the start of Lost in Space, and find the path of least resistance moving up to the small roof break. Or, you can take the first pitch of Lost in Space, climb the heavily chalked crack above the belay, and traverse straight right past a good-sized chickenhead. Instead of moving up the arete, keep traversing right until you find a funky belay in a corner underneath the small roof.
P3: Keep traversing right about 20 feet (difficult pro but easy), until you reach a small break in the roof. Turn the roof (5.4), and ascend discontinuous cracks up the nice slab above (5.7). An obvious, if small ledge will appear just when you need it most. Belay on 3 fixed pins in the shallow dihedral above this ledge.
P4: Ascend the shallow dihedral above the belay (crux, especially if wet), and keep going on easy but runout terrain until you run out of rope and must belay. At this point you should be just to the left of the obvious and deep gully that bisects the Southeast face proper.
P5: Many options, all a bit runout. The easiest way probably goes at no more than 5.4 up the slabs. We moved slightly left from the line of least resistance, taking a short hand and finger crack on an overhanging, giant "boulder" (5.9). Easy scramble from here to the top, although you may have to simulclimb a bit or belay.
Enjoy the summit. Descend as indicated in the Lost in Space route description.