Type: Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Harvey T Carter, '70s
Page Views: 2,671 total · 11/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Apr 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

12 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


I would have given this route one star last year, probably because I climbed it by accident and was a bit disappointed in my route finding failure on Lost in Space. In retrospect, however, it is a good route well worth doing in its own right. Ascending the obvious Southeast flank of Sheeps' Nose (right of Lost in Space) in 4 or 5 pitches, this route will challenge you with moderate routfinding issues, significant but generally easy runout sections, a well-protected 5.8d crux, and few loose rocks here and there. Your reward is outstanding position, sections of very good climbing, and a spectacular summit.

P1-2: Many variations. Keep walking right from the start of Lost in Space, and find the path of least resistance moving up to the small roof break. Or, you can take the first pitch of Lost in Space, climb the heavily chalked crack above the belay, and traverse straight right past a good-sized chickenhead. Instead of moving up the arete, keep traversing right until you find a funky belay in a corner underneath the small roof.

P3: Keep traversing right about 20 feet (difficult pro but easy), until you reach a small break in the roof. Turn the roof (5.4), and ascend discontinuous cracks up the nice slab above (5.7). An obvious, if small ledge will appear just when you need it most. Belay on 3 fixed pins in the shallow dihedral above this ledge.

P4: Ascend the shallow dihedral above the belay (crux, especially if wet), and keep going on easy but runout terrain until you run out of rope and must belay. At this point you should be just to the left of the obvious and deep gully that bisects the Southeast face proper.

P5: Many options, all a bit runout. The easiest way probably goes at no more than 5.4 up the slabs. We moved slightly left from the line of least resistance, taking a short hand and finger crack on an overhanging, giant "boulder" (5.9). Easy scramble from here to the top, although you may have to simulclimb a bit or belay.

Enjoy the summit. Descend as indicated in the Lost in Space route description.


Standard rack. Some longer slings will make the belay at the top of the third pitch more comfortable.