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Routes in Sheep's Nose

10 Sheep and a Goat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
An Apostle or Two T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Army Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Assassination Slab T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chinook T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Direct Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Evening Stroll T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Wimps Only T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Fleece T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Golden Spike, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hard Monkeys T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Harpoon The Manta Ray T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
It Is Time to Space aka The Sheep Eat Grass T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lamb's Prey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost in Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Man Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ozone Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pimp, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pit of Despair, The V0 4 R
Psycho Babble T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seamis T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sheep in Wolves Clothing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sheep with a Silver Tail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
SheepÂ’s Dare T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sheer Sheep Attack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Southeast Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Space Cadet T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ten Years After T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
When Sheep are Nervous T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Description

This is 600 feet of friendly granite close to the road, 40 routes of cracks and face of all difficulty, 1 to 5 pitchs in length, a classic 5.9 on the South Face, need I say more?

Getting There

From Boulder: take US 285 to Pine Junction. Right on CO Hwy 126 to Deckers. South on CO 67 through Deckers. Take a right at West Creek on S.R. 68. Continue for about a half-mile and look for a large dome on the right. Park at a pullout below the dome on the right side of the road at a break in the fence and the start of a small path. Hike this faint path to the base of the South Face.

31 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sheep's Nose

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
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mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
Climbed yesterday 12/5/2010 our own variation of Lost in Space. Roads are completely dry to Sheep's Nose. Half a mile up, just after the turn for Turkey (where we were headed), the road was thick ice on a downhill turning slope. A 4wd with chains would have done it, but we were worried about hitting the wall on the way in and not being able to get out with our 2WD. Dec 6, 2010
Christopher Jones
Denver, Colorado
Christopher Jones   Denver, Colorado
Yes, the roads aren't too bad right now. Turkey Rocks might be another story. Dec 19, 2009
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
Can a 2WD low clearance vehicle make it to Sheep's nose tomorrow? Dec 19, 2009
I have a beehive on my house. Once a year, at about this time, they divide the colony in half. It starts with a huge cloud of swarming bees, in an hour or two they will clump up in a football sized mass about 100 feet from the original hive. In a few days scouts will locate a new nest site, and the queen and the mass move on. Relatively harmless unless they're killer bees down south. Jun 15, 2009
Climbed the Southeast Face route this past Saturday (6/13/09)and really enjoyed the fun route finding challenges. It was nice to get on a line that we had virtually no beta for and use our route finding skills to get up. Only one concern. There was a HUGE swarm of bees in the prominent gully on the Southeast face (climber's right of the start of the SE face route). I have never witnessed a swarm of bees in those numbers! They were swarming approximately 100 feet to the right of and level with the first belay. They were not apparent or visible to us from where we started. I would speculate that they probably maintain a nest somewhere in that gully system? Fortunately, we had no incidents with them for the remainder of the route. Just wanted everyone to be aware of that potential issue in that area of the dome. Be safe! Jun 15, 2009
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
Has anyone done when sheep are nervous? we jumped on it today because another party was on lost in space. A very confusing climb... We scrambled up to the ledge next to the second pitch of lost in space and went up some 5.9- cracks up to a large ledge below three cracks. Then we chose the center crack which led up to a small roof, pulled that and then traversed to the right. Then up a quick 5.5ish pitch to the top. Goes along with the picture I uploaded. Jun 14, 2009
Ahhh...swamis, painters pants, EB's with the super duper leather side panel mod, the bee-gees, saturday night fever.... god how I miss the 70's.... May 3, 2004
I just finished a new video of Sheep's Nose bouldering. It's up in the Videos Section on my website, coloradospringsclimbing.com. Check it out. Jul 26, 2003
It does kind of look like the moon, but most of the bouldering was unaffected fortunately. For instance... the Air Jordan Boulder has black stumps and dirt around it, but the boulder itself has barely a black mark. It makes bouldering up there a really unique experience right now, as long as you can put up with a bit of soot on your pad.. Jul 14, 2003
The fire swept through this area pretty well. Virtually all of the trees surrounding Sheep's Nose are burned and ash covers the ground. It's a little like being on the moon. Some of the boulders surrounding the base were damanaged by the fire, but most seem relatively intact save for some blackened spots. Looks like all the climbs on the formation itself are fine.mike. Jul 14, 2003
Sheep's Nose is open as of a few weeks ago, as is Turkey. You can only park where there are posted parking signs. It's still considered a burn area, so be careful of flash flooding in the event of a heavy rain. May 19, 2003
Bring your tape gloves. A great place to work on your flaired crack climbing skills. I loved this place. May 19, 2003
07/08/02Does anyone know how if this area is closed or burned from the Hayman fire?B- Jul 8, 2002
Along with some excellent bouldering there is also some good tope ropes on the bigger boulders. Brings some slings because the bolts are on the tops of the boulders. One of the best problems is a thin crack that moves diagonally left to right across the face of one of the larger boulders. Near the approach to Ten Years After. Apr 24, 2002
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
The path to Sheep's Nose offers some quality bouldering. Throw a crashpad in your car and enjoy some really cool boulder problems. Apr 19, 2002

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