Avg: 3.2 from 214 votes
|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||1974? Ed Lynch & John Pease, 1974|
|Page Views:||23,800 total · 93/month|
|Shared By:||Bryson Slothower on Mar 2, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Both Stewart Green and Peter Hubbel consider this route to be one of the best routes on Sheep's Nose. I think it's a great way to get Lost in Space. This route is but one of the many fine lines gracing the southeast buttress up to the 8,894 foot summit of Sheep's Nose. With a short approach through the ponderosa pine and a sunny southern exposure, this route is a year-round classic for everyone.
From the parking on Douglas County Rd. 68, hike along a shaded trail up through the boulders to the prominent southeast face in about 15 minutes. Lost in Space begins on the lowest point along the face in its southeast corner and climbs up into a large, right-facing corner near the summit. To start, look for a ledge system with a small pine tree growing out of a right-leaning corner about 75" off the ground. There are many variations and alternatives to the first pitch.
Pitch 1: 5.7 or 5.9, 80'. Look for a 5.7 hand crack leading up and right into an easy 5.5 corner that continues up to the tree at 70', or run it out over the slabs for Cheap Thrills at 5.9. Belay on a comfortable ledge above the tree. If this pitch has snow or ice on it, try Lamb's Prey, a hand and finger crack 30" to the right, 5.9-.
Pitch 2: 5.8+, 130'. Move above the belay, and traverse right for about 10" around an arete to gain a steep fingercrack. Follow this crack straight up to some very airy moves with good holds along the arete and into a shallow dihedral above. Continue up for another 20' to a nice ledge, and belay.
Pitch 3: 5.9, 100'. Head up and left in a thin crack. Where the crack ends (crux), move out onto the face, and make a few delicate moves up the slab. Climb up easier ground to a 5.4 corner above. Scale the corner on large holds, and belay on a spacious pedestal above the corner.
Pitch 4: 5.7, 150'. Jamalama up the right-facing corner in a clean 5.7 hand crack with perfect protection for about 100'. As the angle kicks back and the corner fades, run it out over the summit slabs up to the top. Belay and enjoy the view. There are a few other excellent options to this pitch including Ozone Direct which follows the zig-zag corner system to the left of Lost In Space, 10a.
Descent: scramble and downclimb off to the left side. There may be snow on the descent in winter months. Watch out for the yeti.
Per Doug Haller: as of June 2022, there are two rap stations on the west face. Each uses Metolius rap bolts and large quicklinks. They are hard to locate. A 70m rope works for each rap with extra rope. If rapping with a single 60m, watch the ends. After the raps, hike/scramble down along the base of the cliff to the start of the route.