Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bob D’Antonio, Mark Rolofson, 2/13/83
Page Views: 184 total · 3/month
Shared By: Tzilla Rapdrilla on May 9, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Climb the left-facing corner to a thin RP crack, then follow easier ground on up.

Location

This is the next route right of Harpoon....

Protection

Gear to 3".

Photos

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Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
  5.12a R
Mark Rolofson   Boulder, CO
  5.12a R
This route description bears very little resemblance to the climb Psycho Babble established by Bob D'Antonio & me on February 13, 1983. I looked at my records & "The Hard Stuff - A Climber's Guide to the Turkey Rock Area and other South Platte Crags" (that I wrote & published in 1984). This route ascends a shallow thin crack that diagonals right across a vertical face. After 25-30 feet, move straight up the face to finish up a short, tiny left-facing corner. I remember Bob falling 15 ft. onto a #5 RP trying to reach the corner. The climb is 35-40 feet in length.
We rated this route 5.12a R as a lead using stiff, metal shaft Friends (#0.5-1-5) & # 3 & 5 RPs. With modern cams on flexible cable, such as Aliens, the protection should be much better. Our effort involved a yo-yo ascent with both if us taking turns to place the pro. Bob finished the lead. I returned 4 days later to top rope the climb first try. It felt like .11c on top rope. Oct 15, 2015