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Routes in Sheep's Nose

10 Sheep and a Goat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
An Apostle or Two T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Army Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Assassination Slab T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chinook T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Direct Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Evening Stroll T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Wimps Only T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Fleece T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Golden Spike, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hard Monkeys T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Harpoon The Manta Ray T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
It Is Time to Space aka The Sheep Eat Grass T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lamb's Prey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost in Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Man Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ozone Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pimp, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pit of Despair, The V0 4 R
Psycho Babble T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seamis T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sheep in Wolves Clothing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sheep with a Silver Tail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
SheepÂ’s Dare T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sheer Sheep Attack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Southeast Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Space Cadet T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ten Years After T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
When Sheep are Nervous T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 117 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tzilla Rapdrilla on May 9, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Climb the left-facing corner to a thin RP crack, then follow easier ground on up.

Location

This is the next route right of Harpoon....

Protection

Gear to 3".

Photos

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Mark Rolofson
  5.12a R
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12a R
This route description bears very little resemblance to the climb Psycho Babble established by Bob D'Antonio & me on February 13, 1983. I looked at my records & "The Hard Stuff - A Climber's Guide to the Turkey Rock Area and other South Platte Crags" (that I wrote & published in 1984). This route ascends a shallow thin crack that diagonals right across a vertical face. After 25-30 feet, move straight up the face to finish up a short, tiny left-facing corner. I remember Bob falling 15 ft. onto a #5 RP trying to reach the corner. The climb is 35-40 feet in length.
We rated this route 5.12a R as a lead using stiff, metal shaft Friends (#0.5-1-5) & # 3 & 5 RPs. With modern cams on flexible cable, such as Aliens, the protection should be much better. Our effort involved a yo-yo ascent with both if us taking turns to place the pro. Bob finished the lead. I returned 4 days later to top rope the climb first try. It felt like .11c on top rope. Oct 15, 2015