Slabbed Up-Side da Head
Avg: 2.5 from 66 votes
Routes in The Fin
|Andrology T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|CG's Naked Fun Time S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Dynamometer T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|East of Eden S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Edge of Time S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Lost Time T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Oreivatis Rex T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Slabbed Up-Side da Head S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|FA:||Rick Thompson, Pat Thompson, & Sam Davidson, July 2001|
|Page Views:||4,043 total, 21/month|
|Shared By:||Jeff Lockyer on Nov 7, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route was submitted subsequently as "Unknown 10b" by Richard Wright, and the descriptions are combined.
This route is placed in the "Questionable" category. There is a hold reinforced with glue. It seems to be the only one, and doesn't look like it was pulled off and then glued back on.
This route is located on the right-hand side of the trail near the top and just to the right of "Dynamometer" and behind the tree. This route is a line of seven bolts that defines a climb-anywhere face that intersects Dynamometer below the yellow head wall. A thin start between two large pine trees leads to great crimps and juggy edges with good feet climbing past 7 bolts. The climbing is decent and very well protected. The Fixe rings at the anchor make for a utilitarian top rope. A very enjoyable climb that does not get 3 stars because there are some suspect flakes which are a little loose on the route, as well as the 2nd bolt being placed in fairly hollow rock. Take care and climb carefully.
The crux comes around the 4th bolt where you will find the hidden hold just above and right of the bolt. Glued hold! From here the climbing eases. A decent line; 2 stars. Lower from the 2-bolt anchor about 70 feet.