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Routes in The Fin

Andrology T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
CG's Naked Fun Time S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dynamometer T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
East of Eden S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Edge of Time S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost Time T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oreivatis Rex T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Slabbed Up-Side da Head S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Tom Kohlmann and Alan Robertson
Page Views: 5,131 total, 46/month
Shared By: Tom Woods on Sep 16, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Description

This mixed trad and sport route begins about 10 feet to the left of Edge of Time. Climb up the right-facing chimney/flake system, protecting with medium to large size cams. The first bolt is about 8 feet above the top end of the chimney/flake system. Between the first and second bolts there is a nice horizontal crack that will accept C3s, Aliens or very small cams. The second and third bolts are well spaced. The difficulty of this climb may be height dependent (i.e., may feel like 5.8 to shorter persons instead of 5.7). I thought this climb was a 5.7, while my partner thought it was a 5.8.

Location

This route is located on the Fin, just to the left of Edge of Time.

Protection

3 bolts above chimney/flake system. Two twist link anchors at top.
This is a Tom Kohlmann route. When he establishes anchors on top of his climbs, he uses one quicklink in each bolt with the quicklinks twisted 90 degrees to align the rope properly for rappel. Most likely, someone added chain to his twisted links. Jul 9, 2017
Joe Hughes
  5.7+
Joe Hughes  
  5.7+
The anchor looks damaged. It consists of hangers, chains, and quicklinks, the quicklinks were badly bent, so I clipped the chains. Jul 9, 2017
Jim Fox
Westminster, CO
  5.7+
Jim Fox   Westminster, CO
  5.7+
Lead this yesterday. The bottom part was awkward but easy. About halfway up the crack/flake, I moved onto the face & felt it climbed better. The section above the crack was really fun, not super hard but pretty sustained and lots of smaller edges/holds. Some high stepping and balancy. The bolts are spaced pretty far apart, which adds some spice to the climb. I didn't have a lot of gear with me and didn't have anything that would fit in the horizontal crack between the 1st and 2nd bolts, so I just ran it out. A Tricam or small cam/TCU would have been easy to place.

One of the more fun routes I've done at JP.

5.7+ or 5.8 sounds about right. We climbed this early afternoon & the sun glare above the flake was so bad I had to shield my eyes with my hand to see the holds and bolts above! Made it feel like 5.8 due to poor visibility. Oct 19, 2014
Pretty fun! Not that hard. Definitely 5.7 at most. I like mixed climbs.... Oct 3, 2014