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Routes in The Fin

Andrology T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
CG's Naked Fun Time S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dynamometer T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
East of Eden S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Edge of Time S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost Time T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oreivatis Rex T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Slabbed Up-Side da Head S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, TR
FA: TR: Bernard and Robert Gillett, 1987
Page Views: 2,988 total, 15/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Nov 7, 2001 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


44 Opinions

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Description

This route if located at the top of the trail, on the face just left of "Edge of Time". You can scramble to the top of this wall by continuing to the top of the trail, turning right and then going in between the two [obvious] walls, scramble up to your right to get on top of the wall. This description seems vague, but when you are there, it is pretty obvious, sorry.

This route climbs just left of Edge of Time as indicated and is decent climbing on top rope, not suggested to be lead, unless it is retrobolted.

Protection

Anchor on top for top roping - old anchor with 3 old sleeved and 2 new - If leading on natural gear - good luck!

Eds. apparently this pitch has been retrobolted. Per Josh Vondran: this route is now bolted with 6 bolts and 2 anchors (with a quicklink for each anchor bolt).

Photos

DangerD  
Fun climb, a nice warm-up in the area. I'd call it a 8 or 8+, though shorter people may have a harder time. The route was well protected with bolts, but one of the quicklinks at the top was twisted and looked pretty sketchy. Definitely could be replaced. Aug 5, 2016
Josh Vondran
  5.7+
Josh Vondran  
  5.7+
This route has been bolted. There are 6 bolts (although the first is so close to the ground that it is basically useless/the second bolt can be stick clipped if you have a long enough pole) and 2 anchors.

While this route is rated a 5.9, I definitely wouldn't rate it that myself. While some holds can be difficult to find, they are all good. The feet are great on this route too. Personally, I would give it a 5.7+ (I have been on a 5.7 climb in RRG that was much more difficult that this climb). Much like Allen Simons, I too thought it was a 5.7-5.8 going into the climb, so it was nice to learn that I had successfully lead and onsighted my first 5.9 (regardless of what I would have rated it) outside! Oct 30, 2015
KB
Moab, UT
KB   Moab, UT
The info on this route is confusing on here, so I thought I could clarify.... I went up to Jurassic Park a few days ago.... East of Eden is directly to the left of Lost Time, and it has brand new bolts on it - enough that you do not need any Trad gear for the climb. I felt that it was a moderate 5.9 with hard to find, but it has good feet and slopey hand holds. It was a good warm up for the sketchy, run out Edge of Time.


Sep 9, 2013
After a huge guided school group departed, this route was in the shade. I found excellent face climbing protected by six bolts and and good placements (#0.5 and #1 Camalots) in a horizontal above the second bolt. Jul 24, 2013
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.9
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.9
Not sure if East of Eden has been bolted or if there's a new route further left. Nice route, and well worth climbing. The bolted line is left of Lost Time. (Lost Time is correctly described as being about 10 ft left of Edge of Time.) The bolted line is about another 40 ft further left and is well bolted. Jun 13, 2013
Jeremy Jones  
5.9+
If you use the tree, it is much easier, maybe 5.7 to 5.8. I did think the crux (between bolt one and two) was harder than a 5.9-. I was burned out, last climb of the day, but it felt like a two move 5.10a at the crux. The route was awesome!!!! Thanks, Lisa G. and Lance T., for climbing with me. Sep 26, 2011
Led this the other day thinking it was the stiffest 5.7 I had been on in a while. Turns out it is 5.9. Note to self, bring my guidebook next time, but it was an exciting lead and fun. Aug 22, 2011