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Routes in The Fin

Andrology T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
CG's Naked Fun Time S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dynamometer T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
East of Eden S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Edge of Time S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost Time T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oreivatis Rex T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Slabbed Up-Side da Head S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Andy Brown, Bernard and Robert Gillett, 1997
Page Views: 13,427 total, 71/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on May 16, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

From pre-2009: Andrology is an ultra-classic line on a gorgeous piece of rock. In its previous state, a top rope rehearsal was highly advised for the 30 foot runout to the first clip, since the first bolt had been chopped. This start was "ankles for sure" if you blew it getting to the first clip.

Andrology follows a series of huecos and exciting face climbing up the longest and steepest part of The Fin, and it puts everything else to shame in terms of high quality face climbing. Andrology is one hundred times better climbing than the area classic "Edge of Time". Two things happened to make this line become one of the best 5.11+ routes in the Valley (Estes!!): the start was retrobolted in 2009-10 to match the rest of the route. Second, the double bolt anchor on top got new chains to clip from the top of the face. This set up a bee-line rap to the ground using a 60 meter rope. Andrology is a terrific piece of climbing, and it deserved the trivial amount of effort required to turn it into what it should be. N.B.: the huecos are a bit sandy, so watch the feet.

Per Jon Lachelt: near the top, the bolt line veers slightly to the left, and then you follow a thin seam back to the right to reach the chains.

Protection

Originally, you needed ten draws and several mid-size Camalots to protect this and the bolts were over the top. Also, it is possible to scramble to the top of The Fin to set up a TR.

Per Jonathan Siegrist: my father and I added chains to the anchors of this route so that you can lower off instead of having to walk off.

Per Jon Lachelt: Camalots are no longer necessary to lead the route.


The current bolt count is pending, so bring more than 10 quickdraws to lead the route!

Location

This is the steep line just right of the arete, Edge of Time. It is the leftmost bolted line on this face.
Wonderful, intuitive movement with plentiful opportunities to rest before punching the thin, techy crux. One of my favorite single pitches of climbing to date. DO IT. Jun 13, 2017
NWNINJA
Nederland, CO
  5.12b/c PG13
NWNINJA   Nederland, CO
  5.12b/c PG13
12b/c for sure. Felt harder than all the other Colorado 12b's I've done.

There is a fantastic "moment of truth" in the last 10-15 feet. Move quickly and confidently on small holds and not so good feet and the victory jug will be yours! Beautiful finish to a beautiful route. Nov 6, 2015
Mike A. Lewis
Estes Park, CO
  5.12b/c
Mike A. Lewis   Estes Park, CO
  5.12b/c
I didn't do the route when it went out left at the top - only the straight up version - but I'm really psyched someone added bolts and made it go straight up - what a great route, a direct and aesthetic line. Clipping the last bolt makes it way harder for me than skipping the last bolt. Agree with others - 12b/c range. Oct 12, 2015
Buster Jesik
Allenspark, CO
5.12b
Buster Jesik   Allenspark, CO
5.12b
I agree that the "New Andrology" feels harder then the old line. Smaller holds and more sustained climbing. Felt 12b to me. Sep 29, 2015
Jorge Lassus
Puerto Rico
  5.12b/c PG13
Jorge Lassus   Puerto Rico
  5.12b/c PG13
After the bolt changes and the line now going to the right at the very top, I think it's safe to say it's much harder now. Brother sent it on our last go at it, and we think it's around 5.12c range.

I would not fall on the 3rd or 4th bolt. We placed a small yellow cam. I believe it was between the 2nd and third and another once you reach the big rest before the crux section because of the sketchy bolts.

4th bolt can be moved down and to the right about a foot were the rock sounds/feels solid.
3rd bolt needs to be reevaluated and the 1st bolt is coming of a bit....

Aside from the anxiety the bolts gave me, it was the highlight of the trip.
Big up for this line! 5 stars.

P.S. Never tried it going left, but the new ending is jam packed with technical crimp action to a monster jug. A+. Aug 13, 2015
What a fun route. Excellent movement. The hollow rock around the fourth bolt is, I admit, concerning; however, I'm not sure how one would fix that other than sinking in some massive 3/4 inch thick, 12 inch long anchor like some of the odd anchors I've seen in Europe. The whole area around the bolt rings hollow, so simply moving the (normal) bolt a little be left or right isn't going to do anything. The climbing to the fifth bolt is, as others have pointed out, not very hard compared to the real crux above; but it is a bit runout by sport climbing standards, and I do think a fall is possible just below the 5th bolt for someone climbing at her limit. Oh well, if you are looking at MP, you will know what you are in for. It's an amazingly fun line; but I'd recommend not falling big, or at all, on the 4th bolt. The upper crux is very short and not to bad if you read it right--a very onsightable route (though it took me two tries to get it).

EDIT (based on comment below): Whoa. The change must have just happened, as a week ago the last bolt was still way out left. Seems like an odd change. I'll check it out this week. Jul 23, 2015
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
Well, there are chains at the top now.

There was much talk today about a foot which is now gone at the crimpy section at the upper part where it starts getting steep. This is my first time climbing it - it's the feet/foot you need to get past the pair of same-height crimps. Jul 11, 2015
Super lame that someone took the chains. No idea why anybody would do that to a sport route in a sport climbing area, etc. Anyway, I bought new chains, and Mike B. and I re-installed 'em. Should be good now. Apr 4, 2015
Jon H
MD/DC
5.12b/c
Jon H   MD/DC
5.12b/c
Welp, someone owes Jonathan Siegrist about 12' of chain. Now that the topout is a mantle, I'd say it's definitely crept into 5.12 territory. Dec 15, 2014
Ethan Saffer
Loveland, Colorado
Ethan Saffer   Loveland, Colorado
FYI everybody, I was on Andrology today, and it seems that someone has decided to remove those awesome chains from the top of the route, leaving a nasty surprise mantle at the top for anyone wanting to send. I hope the chains come back soon, they were pretty handy. Oct 27, 2014
Jim W.  
Ripped a crimp off up and left from the third bolt making the section a little harder. Make sure your belayer is wearing a helmet. The chunk would have done serious damage if it had hit someone. There are only 7 bolts, so bring your lead head. Don't let the airy bolting scare you off. This is an amazing line. Do it. Sep 14, 2014
Jon H
MD/DC
5.12b/c
Jon H   MD/DC
5.12b/c
I went up Andrology today and found it to be WAY harder than I remember it right between the 5th and 6th bolts - just where the hold broke. I would easily put it up with any 12b in Boulder Canyon. I'm 6'2" with a +2 reach and still had to high step up above my waist and lock off, then make a MAX extension reach to get to the good crimps above. Unless I missed something, this got a significantly harder... probably 2 letter grades, IMHO. Sep 8, 2014
Broke a left handhold between 5th and 6th bolts today and kicked off some kitty litter throughout. Shouldn't effect the difficulty of the route much: still a fine line despite the fact that many of the holds are hollow and decomposing. Apparently the current weight limit for the ride is 185 lbs. I promise to go on a diet before attempting again. Jun 10, 2014
butlerbt
Boulder, CO
 
butlerbt   Boulder, CO
 
This is an awesome pitch, clean and continuous climbing. I wouldn't call it sustained though: a lot of 5.10 climbing interrupted by a 11c lower crux and then the 12a crux right at the last 2 closely spaced bolts. The bolts are spaced out, but they are where they need to be. Because of this though, I would offer a warning to most of today's "5.12 sport" climbers: this isn't Movement. Jul 13, 2013
brain damage
  5.12a/b R
brain damage  
  5.12a/b R
Wow, this is one of the best climbs I have been on, I give 5 stars. Super sustained, and very pumpy. Tiny crimpers for a ways then jugs for climbing. You need a great head for lead climbing, climbing the bolts is super sketch, sometimes 15 foot runouts. Probably a hard 12 in Boulder Canyon. Sep 12, 2010
Patrick Kehoe
Fort Collins
Patrick Kehoe   Fort Collins
They fixed all the bolt issues. These runouts are as safe as it gets. The rock quality isn't perfect, but I don't think it will cause you problems. May 22, 2010
SteveZ
Denver, CO
 
SteveZ   Denver, CO
 
The fourth bolt is still loose (again, not just the hanger but the bolt itself) as of 7/1/09. I don't really know how to fix such things.... The chains up top are really handy though, thanks for putting those on!
EXCELLENT route! Jul 3, 2009
Bryant Noble
Carbondale, IL
Bryant Noble   Carbondale, IL
Stellar route. I did it around June of 2007. Glad to hear there are chains now. I can't wait to be back someday to get the redpoint. The quality of rock on this route is definitely a drawback, but with a few new solid bolts and a little more traffic to clear off the dirtiness and loose holds it could be an uber classic. I ripped off a big flake in the gully at the top and almost shattered my belayer's skull. Might want to wear a helmet for this one belayers. Dec 3, 2007
John Calder
Spokane, WA
John Calder   Spokane, WA
I thought those chains looked new. I was there on the 17th of this month, and thought, damn these things are shiny!. Thanks for doing that. Aug 24, 2007
Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
  5.12a
Jonathan Siegrist   his truck
  5.12a
Yesterday my father and I added chains to the anchors of this route so that you can lower off instead of having to walk off.

Finally this fantastic route can be enjoyed without the f*$king hastle of walking off/not being able to pull rope or TR, etc. Aug 12, 2007
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
Just got on this yesterday (7/15/07) and the 4th bolt is definitely loose. The combination of the loose bolt and the hollow rock makes this very sketchy, and I wouldn't trust the bolt to hold a fall. The moves above the bolt are not to hard though and the 5th bolt is very solid. If someone replaces the bolt, they should probably put in a 6" bolt to try and get past the crappy rock on the surface. Jul 16, 2007
Joel Larner
Fort Collins, CO
Joel Larner   Fort Collins, CO
The bolts on the top can be used for setting up a top rope, but bring lots of extension. I used a 20' cordellette (spread to 3 bolts) plus 4' sling to get the rope over the edge.

This route is long, impressive, and quite pumpy. Jun 24, 2005
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
The fourth bolt can currently be moved around a little bit in its hole (not just the hanger, but the bolt itself). I'm not sure a fall onto it would be a wise idea. Although the climbing on this pitch is quite good, in my opinion the rock quality isn't that great. May 30, 2004
Matt Juth
Evergreen
  5.11d
Matt Juth   Evergreen
  5.11d
The first bolt has been replaced. It is still very exciting, with long but safe runouts. Still crunchy also.... May 9, 2004