Avg: 3.7 from 71 votes
Routes in The Fin
|Andrology T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|CG's Naked Fun Time S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Dynamometer T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|East of Eden S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Edge of Time S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Lost Time T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Oreivatis Rex T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Slabbed Up-Side da Head S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|FA:||Andy Brown, Bernard and Robert Gillett, 1997|
|Page Views:||13,427 total, 71/month|
|Shared By:||Richard M. Wright on May 16, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionFrom pre-2009: Andrology is an ultra-classic line on a gorgeous piece of rock. In its previous state, a top rope rehearsal was highly advised for the 30 foot runout to the first clip, since the first bolt had been chopped. This start was "ankles for sure" if you blew it getting to the first clip.
Andrology follows a series of huecos and exciting face climbing up the longest and steepest part of The Fin, and it puts everything else to shame in terms of high quality face climbing. Andrology is one hundred times better climbing than the area classic "Edge of Time". Two things happened to make this line become one of the best 5.11+ routes in the Valley (Estes!!): the start was retrobolted in 2009-10 to match the rest of the route. Second, the double bolt anchor on top got new chains to clip from the top of the face. This set up a bee-line rap to the ground using a 60 meter rope. Andrology is a terrific piece of climbing, and it deserved the trivial amount of effort required to turn it into what it should be. N.B.: the huecos are a bit sandy, so watch the feet.
Per Jon Lachelt: near the top, the bolt line veers slightly to the left, and then you follow a thin seam back to the right to reach the chains.
ProtectionOriginally, you needed ten draws and several mid-size Camalots to protect this and the bolts were over the top. Also, it is possible to scramble to the top of The Fin to set up a TR.
Per Jonathan Siegrist: my father and I added chains to the anchors of this route so that you can lower off instead of having to walk off.
Per Jon Lachelt: Camalots are no longer necessary to lead the route.
The current bolt count is pending, so bring more than 10 quickdraws to lead the route!