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Routes in The Fin

Andrology T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
CG's Naked Fun Time S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dynamometer T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
East of Eden S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Edge of Time S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost Time T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oreivatis Rex T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Slabbed Up-Side da Head S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Unknown, 2000?
Page Views: 4,767 total, 24/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Nov 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Note 1: Bernard Gillett's guidebook shows a route named Stegosaurus (5.9R, one bolt) at this location. It is not known if "CG's Naked Fun Time" is a retro-bolted version of Stegosaurus or if they are different climbs.

This route is located just downhill from "Slabbed Up-Side da Head" and the 2 obvious pine trees. The first bolt is located just below an obvious undercling, fairly chalked. From here the climbing climbs straight upon occasional big jugs on steep rock. This route is considered to be PG-13 as a fall after the 2nd bolt may be a long one, with a couple loose flakes in between. Be careful to pull down and not out.

Location

This route is located just downhill from "Slabbed Up-Side da Head" and the 2 obvious pine trees.

Protection

4 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.
Arthur Wright
  5.10b/c
Arthur Wright  
  5.10b/c
Super fun movement on great rock. If it was twice as long, it would be a classic for sure. Sep 6, 2016
T G
Colorado
 
T G   Colorado
 
Agree that the anchors are not set in the ideal place Oct 12, 2015
steple
  5.10c
steple  
  5.10c
The route description should be updated: There are no loose flakes. The route is also perfectly safe (not PG 13). The bolts however could have better alignment and the anchor should be four feet further left and also lower to avoid rope drag when lowering or pulling the rope. The only reason why the anchor would be so far right of the bolt line would be easy access from the back to set up a top rope. Aug 21, 2011
Peter Swank
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Peter Swank   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Fun line, but wish it was longer. Good pumpy route that has some distance between bolts. Still needs chains on anchor. Oct 12, 2010
Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
5.10a
Eli Helmuth   Ciales, PR
5.10a
Still needs chains on the anchor- 10a.
The angle of the slings/bolts is inconsequential- the age of the webbing is the only issue and as all other anchors here are chains...seems the way to go.
Easy to pop over the top and walk-off to the south or vice-versa...easy to set-up a top-rope by scrambling around to the top. Jul 18, 2010
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
 
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
 
Ok, so a little info on this little route. It went up in the summer of 2000. We were pretty sure Stegosaurus was to the right, as this climbing was harder and we cleaned some obvious loose rock, but maybe we messed up. Also, there weren't many of the other bolted routes there at the time, if I remember right.

So anyway, if it is indeed PG-13 and that's out of character with the rest of the climbs at this area, someone should redo the bolts, I live about 4 hours away and likely wouldn't get up there anytime soon. I'll even send the hardware if you want. Jul 18, 2010
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Someone should fix the anchor at the top of this route!

If I had rope or webbing with me, I would have done it, but we left due to rain.

At the top, there are 2 bolts with rap rings that look solid. I imagine someone wanted to avoid having the rope go over the edge, so they tied rope (7mm rope in loops I think) to the bolts and extended it to two more rap rings over the edge. The problem:

They tied the rope in a loop going through both bolts and the rap rings so it forms a triangle. That greatly increases the force on the bolts because of the added opposing horizontal force generated.

Either it should be done with multiple loops and a sliding X or separate loops from each bolt to the rap rings.

I imagine even with the force multiplication it is ok for rappelling, but if someone were to clip into the lower rap rings or the slings for top roping, it would be an incredibly bad setup. Aug 23, 2008
Ammon
  5.10b
Ammon  
  5.10b
I am not quite sure of the history of this route, but in Gillett's book, it is named 'Stegosaurus' and is rated at 5.9. I have climbed this enjoyable little route about 6 times over the last few weeks. Apparently, the route is named CG's Naked Fun Time. I would say this route definitely goes at 5.10a/b, depending on moves used.

I would also add that the route has fairly diverse moves, and after the 2nd bolt, is pretty consistent in the 5.10a/b grade. I recommend this climb for its somewhat challenging nature and the enjoyability of the moves. The route is shaded in the morning 'til noon, and again, in the evening. Sep 2, 2006
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.10a
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.10a
Perhaps someone cleaned the loose flakes? Not so bad. PG-13, yes. Dries quickly after an afternoon dump. Jul 10, 2004
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
 
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
 
I have found out that the name of the route should be "CG's Naked Fun Time" and the rating is somewhere around 10b-ish, all depending on line, etc....

J. Jun 10, 2002