Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Andy Brown, 1995
Page Views: 6,613 total · 34/month
Shared By: Matt Juth on May 8, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Area closure Details

Description

[This is a combination of 2 submissions by Jeff Lockyer & M Juth]

This route is located on the right hand side of the trail, just before arriving at the Fin (left side of trail), just before reaching the top of the trail. There are 2 obvious pine trees out right, this route starts just uphill of the leftmost tree. The climbing follows a pocketed wall on fun moves to the 2nd bolt, from here there is an obvious pocket for a piece of gear. From here, climb past the 3rd bolt and up to a 2 bolt anchor for the route just right of this line. You can clip one of the bolts on this anchor and continue to the top of the wall past 2 more bolts, a little run out on the top half of the wall with the crux coming very near the top with dyno for those under 6'. The top of the route could use a bolt or 2 more to make the route more enjoyable for all. Good climbing, on a wall with some loose flakes, beware of these, and pull down not out. Dynamometer begins with the first line of bolts right of Andrology. The "studs" have been replaced with good bolts; however, bring a medium cam for the horizontal crack after bolt 3. This climb, like Andrology, feels like it was bolted on lead with some fall potential.

Climb behind the small tree past the first bolts, place a cam and head for the shut above. Some moves felt 10'ish, one with the cam well below your feet. Go up the headwall on beautiful gold rock, that apperars to be loose, but is actually solid. The crux sections begin with a vertical flake, moves past a bolt, and then the "Dyno". At 5'8" I was able to work my feet high enough to just deadpoint for the hold. The final moves to the top are are cruxy as well.

[Eds. There is current a 2 bolt anchor on top. One has a rap ring & the other is a Metolius rap hanger. The pull is not easy.]

Protection

[Eds. Now this route can be climbed with clipping 8 bolts (including the anchor from the route just to the right) and one #1 Camalot placed between 2nd & 3rd bolt.]

Location

This is the second line just right of the arete, Edge of Time. It is the 2nd bolted line from the left on this face.

Photos