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Routes in The Fin

Andrology T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
CG's Naked Fun Time S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dynamometer T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
East of Eden S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Edge of Time S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost Time T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oreivatis Rex T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Slabbed Up-Side da Head S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Andy Brown, 1995
Page Views: 5,123 total, 31/month
Shared By: Matt Juth on May 8, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


68 Opinions

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Description

[This is a combination of 2 submissions by Jeff Lockyer & M Juth]

This route is located on the right hand side of the trail, just before arriving at the Fin (left side of trail), just before reaching the top of the trail. There are 2 obvious pine trees out right, this route starts just uphill of the leftmost tree. The climbing follows a pocketed wall on fun moves to the 2nd bolt, from here there is an obvious pocket for a piece of gear. From here, climb past the 3rd bolt and up to a 2 bolt anchor for the route just right of this line. You can clip one of the bolts on this anchor and continue to the top of the wall past 2 more bolts, a little run out on the top half of the wall with the crux coming very near the top with dyno for those under 6'. The top of the route could use a bolt or 2 more to make the route more enjoyable for all. Good climbing, on a wall with some loose flakes, beware of these, and pull down not out. Dynamometer begins with the first line of bolts right of Andrology. The "studs" have been replaced with good bolts; however, bring a medium cam for the horizontal crack after bolt 3. This climb, like Andrology, feels like it was bolted on lead with some fall potential.

Climb behind the small tree past the first bolts, place a cam and head for the shut above. Some moves felt 10'ish, one with the cam well below your feet. Go up the headwall on beautiful gold rock, that apperars to be loose, but is actually solid. The crux sections begin with a vertical flake, moves past a bolt, and then the "Dyno". At 5'8" I was able to work my feet high enough to just deadpoint for the hold. The final moves to the top are are cruxy as well.

[Eds. There is current a 2 bolt anchor on top. One has a rap ring & the other is a Metolius rap hanger. The pull is not easy.]

Protection

[Eds. Now this route can be climbed with clipping 8 bolts (including the anchor from the route just to the right) and one #1 Camalot placed between 2nd & 3rd bolt.]

Location

This is the second line just right of the arete, Edge of Time. It is the 2nd bolted line from the left on this face.
Eric Carlos
Chattanooga, TN
  5.11b
Eric Carlos   Chattanooga, TN
  5.11b
BETA warning----No dyno needed. I am 5'6", and I just got a small right hand crimp undercling and got my feet high. It was a stretch but very slow and static. Aug 24, 2013
butlerbt
Boulder, CO
  5.11b PG13
butlerbt   Boulder, CO
  5.11b PG13
Take a #1 c4 for the horizontal. A lot of the route is 5.9. The crux though felt harder then 11b to me, but I didnt even consider a dyno - I crimped hard out left. In hindsight now with the information given above, a dyno or deadpoint seems much more appropriate here. Jul 13, 2013
FCJohn
Fort Collins, CO
 
FCJohn   Fort Collins, CO
 
Don't be misled, it can be done onsight static if you look around for the right hands and feet. Supplemented the draws with a #2 Camalot and grey #00 Mastercam. Aug 5, 2010
Cale Farnham  
 
Stellar climb! The dyno seemed sketch city, but like Adam said above a static move is very doable! 2 thumbs up! Sep 29, 2008
Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
  5.11b
Jonathan Siegrist   his truck
  5.11b
Yesterday my father and I added chains to the anchors of this route so that you can easily lower off and pull your rope without having to walk off.
Enjoy! Aug 12, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Done in a single-pitch, this is about as cool as a single pitch gets.
As for gear, there are plenty of bolts on the route and although I took cams with me but forgot I had them - I didn't feel pressed to place them at all. In fact, I skipped a few clips on what would have been the first pitch anyway so I'd have the slings later.
Clipping only the left-most bolt of the "P1 anchor" with a longer sling and continuing up the route seemed to be the nice way to go- and it was. No drag, no big pauses in the action. Passing another bolt though some easy climbing, you reach the crux bolt and do the crux move. You can dyno it, you can static it, but moving up and dead-pointing looked the easiest and was not too bad. The hands can come up to some intermediate holds on the way to the big edge and that helps a lot. Past the big edge, there are good holds to the top. If not for the pump, I'd bet we'd all be calling them 9+ or so, but with the pump they are more difficult.
A single 60m line will get you to the ground- but the ropes are hard to pull because the anchors are over the top. Probably better to walk off. Jun 7, 2006
adam brink
Boulder, CO
adam brink   Boulder, CO
For those who don't want to dyno on this move, two of my short friends did the move totally static. May 3, 2006
Tom Dickey  
 
I really enjoyed this route-- interesting moves the whole way up, and the dyno was well, a DYNO. The moves above felt hard, also. Good value climb. May 2, 2006