Type: Trad, Ice, 600 ft (182 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,590 total · 27/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Just west of The Shroud is another gully. This is Tony's Nightmare. Ever wonder who was Tony? Why did he have a nightmare?

If you belay it, there could be a pitch of easier ice lower. Maybe 30-60 feet? Maybe WI 2 to 2+.

The main attraction here is a good pitch of WI3-4 ice above for 50-80 feet. This is really fun but can be wet. In good conditions, it might make a good first WI4 lead. In really fat conditions, it might be WI3.

There is more ice above, but it looks fairly low angle. According to Rob Griz, it is WI2- and 100', and trees with old tat and rings abound to rap from.

Beware of avalanche conditions. Expect an aerobic approach.

Protection Suggest change

Screws.

ATES (Avalanche Terrain Exposure Scale) Rating Suggest change

As determined by Climb Avy Aware:

  • ATES 3: Complex

ATES Scale:

Non-Avalanche: 0 (Routes with no exposure to avalanches except small sluffs and spindrift.)

Simple: 1 (Routes with brief exposure to very low frequency avalanches starting from above or crossing occasional short slopes.)

Challenging: 2 (Routes with long exposure to low frequency avalanches or brief exposure to high frequency avalanches starting from above or crossing a few short slopes.Options to reduce exposure.)

Complex: 3 (Routes with long exposure to high frequency avalanches starting from above or crossing steep slopes with terrain traps below. Minimal options to reduce exposure.)

Extreme: 4 (Routes with long and sustained exposure to very high frequency avalanches starting from above and crossing multiple steep slopes with terrain traps below. No options to reduce exposure.)

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