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Tony's Nightmare

WI3+, Trad, Ice, 3 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2.2 from 21 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Tenmile Canyon aka Of…

Description

Just west of The Shroud is another gully. This is Tony's Nightmare. Ever wonder who was Tony? Why did he have a nightmare?

If you belay it, there could be a pitch of easier ice lower. Maybe 30-60 feet? Maybe WI 2 to 2+.

The main attraction here is a good pitch of WI3-4 ice above for 50-80 feet. This is really fun but can be wet. In good conditions, it might make a good first WI4 lead. In really fat conditions, it might be WI3.

There is more ice above, but it looks fairly low angle. According to Rob Griz, it is WI2- and 100', and trees with old tat and rings abound to rap from.

Beware of avalanche conditions. Expect an aerobic approach.

Protection

Screws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dave Hoven cruising Tony's.
[Hide Photo] Dave Hoven cruising Tony's.
High up on Tony's Nightmare.
[Hide Photo] High up on Tony's Nightmare.
Ryan leading lower Tony's Nightmare.
[Hide Photo] Ryan leading lower Tony's Nightmare.
Fat Ice, Good Weather. Lower Falls section*.
[Hide Photo] Fat Ice, Good Weather. Lower Falls section*.
Justin on Tony's enjoying the sun. Lower flow.
[Hide Photo] Justin on Tony's enjoying the sun. Lower flow.
Kyle on TR.
[Hide Photo] Kyle on TR.
In great shape, 2/7/2013.
[Hide Photo] In great shape, 2/7/2013.
Feb 02
[Hide Photo] Feb 02
Myke breaking the ice.  Stop it!
[Hide Photo] Myke breaking the ice. Stop it!
Myke at the top.  Happy guy.
[Hide Photo] Myke at the top. Happy guy.
Bryan get to the top.
[Hide Photo] Bryan get to the top.
Boots with Myke belaying down below.
[Hide Photo] Boots with Myke belaying down below.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ben F
Benfield, Kolorado
[Hide Comment] This was my second pitch of ice climbing ever (TRed) and I wanted to submit something on the ice section. My first was the lower ice section along the approach (same gully). It was good enough for me to want to swing axes again. Anyway, there is a sling anchor for a descent to the left of the flow. Dec 31, 2001
[Hide Comment] A fixed TR anchor exists as some slings and biners 15ft left of the top.

Ice is not as fat as in the pic above from Feb 02, but quite wet and plastic. It should form up some more w/ colder temps here. The gully below is in the same soft condition, but neither are thin by any manner. Snow depth in the gully is low and conditions are stable from brief inspection (no weak interface layer).

Nice ice and hearty approach, but the I-70 traffic is a little annoying to hear all day long. Jan 6, 2003
[Hide Comment] FYI, after reading the beta on the sling anchor, it is note worthy that there is a good bolted anchor with shuts for TR and rapping, it's a bit higher up from the sling anchor, on the left, look for a giant boulder. Nov 10, 2003
Rob Griz
Frisco
  WI3-
[Hide Comment] Just for some reasonable clarification: Tony Nightmare is WI3 50' The lower approach ice is WI2+ 60'. You can bypass the lower ice to the left by working up slabs and thin ledges. The avi danger in there is super exposed. Tons of wind-loading happens way above in the upper gullies. The ice above the main WI3 pitch rambles at WI2- 100' and trees with old tat and rings abound to rap from. Nov 21, 2010
r.f
colorado springs
[Hide Comment] Conditions over Easter Weekend were good. The nightmare was the approach. A 1000-1500 feet of slogging through snow and scree. Ice was solid. 1st pitch is easily soloed, W12+ maybe, pitch two a bit farther up. It's the work, maybe 40-50 ft of WI3-4. Pick your line. Belay to the left to avoid ice and rock fall. Next pitch involves some WI2+ climbing, with some snow slogging, solo it. Ropes really are only needed for descent. If you make it to P3, might as well shoot for the summit and get a little alpine experience. Snow slope was stable on 5 MAR. Ice was solid and took long screws. All in all, a ton of work for some minimial climbing. The Shroud seems a better bet based on the approach and about the same quality of ice. IMHO the "Nightmare Tony had" was the horrendous approach. Slings and rap rings abound on all trees. As always, watch for avy danger as the entire climb is in an avy chute. Apr 5, 2013