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Routes in Tenmile Canyon aka Officer's Gulch

Chimney T M4
Compounded Fractures TR WI3 M6+
Crown of Thorns T M4-5
Fish Out of Water WI5 M4-5
Holy Grail S M7
Plumb, The T WI4+ M6+
Right of Round the Corner T WI4 M2
Round the Corner T WI4-5
Shroud, The T WI3-4
Sneaky 1 T WI2
Spectre T WI3+ M4 R
Three Tiers T WI2+
Tony's Nightmare T WI3+
Tres Amigos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3+ M5 R
Tres Amigos T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3+ M6 PG13
Unnamed Gully T WI2-3
Upper Tiers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3-4 M4 R
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Description

Tenmile Canyon is along the interstate just west of Dillon. This area has lots of nice easy to moderate ice climbs with casual approaches. The downside is that most routes are the bottoms of avalanche chutes, so it is only sane to climb here early in the season before heavy snow falls. Preview conditions carefully before jumping on anything here.

Getting There

From Dillon, drive west on I-70 to the exit for Officer's Gulch. Park on the south side of the road at the start of the path through Tenmile Canyon. Most of the routes are to the west, but a few come in east of the lot. To approach everything, walk along the trail until you see your route and then bushwhack up to it(there will likely be tracks through the snow).

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Classic Climbing Routes at Tenmile Canyon aka Officer's Gulch

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Lee Jenkins
Tucson, Arizona
Lee Jenkins   Tucson, Arizona
Anybody been up there lately. Conditions? Avi and route?
Thx Nov 27, 2011
Kyle Mattingly
Crested Butte, CO
Kyle Mattingly   Crested Butte, CO
Officer's Gulch is amazing right now. Tons of good quality ice/mixed routes are in. Just take your pick. And best of all the avalanche danger is low! It has been the best early season in a long time! Nov 12, 2006
Climbed Round The Corner today with Tim and Nick. Touches down. Start is a pseudopillar, then opens up a little. Chandelier ice most of the way. Psych pro only first 35 feet. Stiff lead (for me), but recommended. Felt like 4+/5-. Easy approach right now, 6-10 inches of fresh stuff on the ground. No slide risk as of today. Keep the snow shoes in the basement for a few more days, but recommend ski poles to pick your way through the rocky approach.

Shroud is a long way from coming in, just a few bits of ice here and there.

Upper part of Tony's looked climbable, but Round the Corner looked better to us. Nov 14, 2003
The Shroud is partially in - left side looks pretty good, but right side only has a few small columns touching down. Three Tiers is in to the top of Tier 2, with between 2 and 4 feet of well-consolidated snow covering the approach and most of the climb. First pitch is small, only about 15' of WI2 at the transition, rock and snow only to the first anchor. Second pitch is much nicer, still WI2, but lots more ice all-around. The heavy snowcover makes the climb kind of dull - but we put the trail back in today and it should last for a week or two. Contrary to previous reports, snowfields above 10Mile appeared to be caught in the rocks and stable, and there were no apparent layers in the runouts or gullies. A couple of small runs earlier in the season (2 weeks ago, perhaps?) looked to have happened, but confined themselves to the direct run-out and 30M below the first tier pitch. It appeared that a couple of climbs in the Designator area at Vail were in and good to the top of the cliff as well, but most of the other lines looked thin or not in for normal climbing yet. Nov 24, 2002
The Shroud in nice and fat (just a 10 minute walk from the Officer's Gulch exit). Climbed it on Sunday the 13th of Jan. Jan 16, 2002

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