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Routes in Tenmile Canyon aka Officer's Gulch

Chimney T M4
Compounded Fractures TR WI3 M6+
Crown of Thorns T M4-5
Fish Out of Water WI5 M4-5
Holy Grail S M7
Plumb, The T WI4+ M6+
Right of Round the Corner T WI4 M2
Round the Corner T WI4-5
Shroud, The T WI3-4
Sneaky 1 T WI2
Spectre T WI3+ M4 R
Three Tiers T WI2+
Tony's Nightmare T WI3+
Tres Amigos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3+ M5 R
Tres Amigos T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3+ M6 PG13
Unnamed Gully T WI2-3
Upper Tiers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3-4 M4 R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,157 total, 11/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 29, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This, is a fun, funky route that looks less steep and less interesting than it is. It may be just a variation. I don't know its name. So, for now, we'll call it Right of Round the Corner. It is left of The Plumb.

3 starts are possible: left in a corner, up verglas in middle of slab. Right in a gully/groove. A #1 Friend at base of slab can help. #1/2 Friend is useful on R. #0.75 Camalot useful on left. The steep bit can require stubbies. This has delicate ice and a nice belay ice ledge. You can use a short bugaboo to back up ice belay or go right to root/angle/jammed knots/1 link belay/rap point.

Rap 100' to ground.

Protection

#1/2 to 1 Friends useful on rock start, medium screws and 2-3 stubbies. A small bugaboo can backup the belay.

Toprope Protection

There is an anchor to the right with slings around a root backed up to an angle and jammed knots. Might be tough to get to unless led.

Approach

Probably an hour. Expect 1000' of gain.

Photos

Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
Please be aware that an ice dam can form on this route.

When we climbed this route on 1/20/06, I broke an ice dam. The route was in very fat - it was ice only, about WI3. The dam was on the low-angle bench just before the final ice step. While leading the upper step, I broke off piece of ice. When the ice landed on the flatter section it broke the dam. A sheet of ice about 5 feet by 10 feet wide and 1 foot deep exploded off the (climber's) right side of the climb, just below the rock section of The Plumb. Water loudly gushed out of the hole for a couple minutes. It was impressive.

Since I was above the dam and my belayer was down and left, neither of us was in danger. Jan 21, 2007