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Routes in Tenmile Canyon aka Officer's Gulch

Chimney T M4
Compounded Fractures TR WI3 M6+
Crown of Thorns T M4-5
Fish Out of Water WI5 M4-5
Holy Grail S M7
Plumb, The T WI4+ M6+
Right of Round the Corner T WI4 M2
Round the Corner T WI4-5
Shroud, The T WI3-4
Sneaky 1 T WI2
Spectre T WI3+ M4 R
Three Tiers T WI2+
Tony's Nightmare T WI3+
Tres Amigos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3+ M5 R
Tres Amigos T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3+ M6 PG13
Unnamed Gully T WI2-3
Upper Tiers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3-4 M4 R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Ice, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,131 total, 11/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Walk west on the Ten Mile trail and look to your left. The first and most obvious ice climb from the road is The Shroud, and it is only about a 10 minute walk. This route is a lot of fun and very popular, so it's hard to miss.

The Shroud is usually rampy at the bottom with the business being a 30-40 foot steep section. Lots of variations are possible, some of which may be burly mixed lines depending on conditions.

[Eds. beware of avalanche risk here.]

Protection

A few screws are enough.

Toprope Protection

Can be toproped from trees.
Rob Griz
Frisco
 
Rob Griz   Frisco
 
A note for the Gumby climbers that "cleaned" the 'fixed' biners on the Shroud ice climb (or any climb that has fixed biners for rap anchors, for that matter). Yo, jack-a**, if you're that hard up for 2 old scrappy REI biners, swing by my house, I'll give you some from my shite pile.

Not only did you remove the rap biners, but then you must have rapped on the cord/webbing anchor and then PULLED your rope through the anchor, WEAKENING it for subsequent climbers, what an a**-wipe move!

Another moron did this in Vail on the Desi and belayed directly off the webbing anchor. He cut through the anchor (duh!) on the 4th trip and fell, what an IDIOT. When you strip fixed anchors and pull ropes through them, you compromise EVERY climber's safety. Try to think about somebody else besides your own lame-a** next time.

BTW: The top the Shroud is baked out, and the ice is delamed on the left side. Take care when topping out to the anchors. Dec 18, 2013
Congrats on finding that tool! Jan 14, 2012
Guys and gals, I hate to say this out loud, but I dropped a tool out there today. It has black tape along the shaft and five wraps of grip tape near the head. I will be out there searching for it as much as possible until I find it. However, if you find it, please contact me. I would be glad to recover it. Thank you so much. (720) 340-0930. Jan 11, 2012
Joe Brannan
Lyons, CO
Joe Brannan   Lyons, CO
Looks like a pair of climbers had a close call with an avalanche while climbing The Shroud on 1-17-11. From the CAIC accident page:

avalanche.state.co.us/acc/a…

"While toproping The Shroud ice climb, an avalanche from above the climb flowed through the area. The climber on the ice at the time was generally protected just below the top of the ice flow and the avalanche ran over him. The belayer was not anchored in and was swept from his stance at the belay station. The belayer was unable to hold the break on the belay device and slid approximately 30 feet down the rope where a knot stopped him from being carried away by the avalanche and releasing the climber above. The snow flowed over the climber and pummelled the belayer for approximately 10 seconds and then continued past the climbers. Neither party was injured or buried as the two climbers held each other's weight at the end of the rope through the secure toprope anchor. The slide reached the bike/ski/snowshoe path at the base of the slope approximately 400 to 500 feet below."

Sounds like the knot in the end of the rope might have saved these guys. Jan 25, 2011
kyle kingrey
Loveland
kyle kingrey   Loveland
Shroud's in pretty good as of 12/10/06. Right side better than the left. Both sides however require climbing frozen dirt to webbing.
Jack Roberts' book "Colorado Ice" describes this as WI3. I think it's a definite 4. Dec 12, 2006
Scott Bower
Fort Collins, CO
Scott Bower   Fort Collins, CO
It's not a secret. It is visible from I-70, after all. Fewer people climb this route after mid Nov. due to the danger from the huge snowfields near the top of the peak, which are not visible from the climb. It gets climbed in winter, but it is best to go when avvy danger is low. This past weekend, most of the gullies in Officer's Gulch had lots of wet slide debris in the bottoms of them.

Edit: Oops, didn't see Leo's follow up to the conditions comment. Mar 7, 2006
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
As I recall, this was published in a Summit County publication & Rocky Mt News. He was a talented, experienced climber. Sadly, he just was in the wrong place at the wrong time. I think the folks at Bent Gate knew him. Feb 28, 2006
Leo, I think you made my point more so than I did. I was trying to point out all the evidence of avalanche below the climb. Bits of trees and broken branches strewn about. The fact that the approach was 6" hard slab over 36" of sugar snow. If anyone has the accident details Leo ref's, please post. Feb 28, 2006
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
FYI: This area & this climb are areas to be particularly cautious. A few years back an experienced ice climber was completely pummeled by a big avalanche on this route, I recall. Feb 27, 2006
Climbed 1/18/2004. Left side was fat and wet. The middle curtain touched down and was much fun. Jan 21, 2004
Joe Keyser
Scottsdale, AZ
Joe Keyser   Scottsdale, AZ
Conditions were great on The Shroud on 2/10/03. Sticky, screw eating, blue ice, although starting to get chopped out a little. Just as a note of caution, a 60m rope just gets you to the ground since the anchors are back a bit from the top. A 50m will leave you with a short downclimb... Feb 10, 2003
TBD
TBD  
Left side is fat and wet. The middle is climbable but deteriorating. The right side offers an easier alternative but currently isn't seeing any re-developement. Jan 6, 2003
TBD
TBD  
The left and right side are fairly good. The center is filling in. Dec 2, 2002
Climbed The Shroud yesterday... Soft on the left; nice and firm on the right. Use the not so obvious anchor on the far right for a better climb (tr). It was an exceptionally beautiful Colorado day! Mar 31, 2002
Climbed 3/23/02. Still in good shape. Layer of slush on top but good ice below for pro. Evidence of recent slide activity. Mar 25, 2002
The Shroud is dry.... Nov 5, 2001